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Portia Lawrie

Uncategorized

Ways to rebel against Instagram’s Algorithm…

03/28/16

Rumour is that Instagram will be rolling out it’s controversial algorithm “imminently“.  ie within the next 24 hours. Now I don’t know how many of you are on Instagram, but if you are, then it’s possible that, like me, you’re not too chuffed at the prospect of this. At the moment, your feed is chronological. Which means you see posts as they happen, in order, in real time.  When you stop for a break, you can sit with your coffee and scroll through your feed and see what everyone has been up to in the past couple of hours. I personally like the sense of connection I get knowing that while I’m sewing one thing, at the exact same time someone else is shopping for cacti! It’s part of what gives IG it’s sense of community for me….which is why I favour it over all other social media. Well…for now :/instagram-app-smartphone-ios-android

image source

The switch to an algorithm based feed “a la facebook” means that Instagram, or rather it’s algorithm, will decide what to show you and when. Potentially omitting some content completely in favour of what it deems “more relevant ” content. Thus becoming more automated. Less human. For me that damages that sense of connection that IG currently has. And while IG insist it’s for our own benefit, I balk at the autocracy of a computer algorithim or corporate boardroom deciding that for me. I also strongly suspect that while IG doesn’t currently distinguish between commercial and personal accounts, it will eventually go down that road.  And then what it decides to show us in our feeds will be based not on what it thinks we’re most interested in, but on who paid the most for advertising .

It’s naive I guess, to think that this was never going to happen to IG. Indeed in the long run it’s probably a fait accomplis. But, there may be a few things you can do in the short term to “stick it to the man”….

Sign the Petition

At the moment the petition to “keep instagram chronological” has approaching 300k signatures. To be honest, it seems a pretty poor showing when you consider that there are over 400 million active IG user accounts at the last tally. So you could say, what good will it do. Probably not alot. But registering your protest by signing the petition might make you feel a bit better, lol! And it’s still sticking it to the man. Even if it is only a tiny prick….signpetition

Img Source: Petapixel

Switch off Auto Update Permissions

This to me seems the best option. In order for the changes to take effect tomorrow, your app will have to update. If you don’t allow the update permission, then nothing will change right? That’s the theory anyway.  Afraid I only know the process for android. But the iphone process should be relatively similar. Here’s how:

Open up the Google Play App on your device. Click the dropdown menu top left of screen. (Below left). Scroll up or down to find and click on “My Apps & Games”. (Below right).IG dodge 1

Then scroll to find and click on Instagram (below left). Once open click on the 3 dots in the top right of the window and uncheck the “auto update” box.ig dodge 2

Now in theory, when IG rolls out this algorithm update, you’ve locked the door so to speak. So IG has to knock on the door and ask if it’s ok to deliver it’s algorithmic parcel into your house. No thank you Mr Delivery Man. I am not signing for that parcel thank you!

The likelihood is that IG will eventually get round this. But for now, it should provide a stay of execution. Who knows, in the meantime they may have a change of heart and provide us with an “opt out” clause. Here’s hoping.

Turn on Post Notifications

OK, so this one is doing the rounds. And it is what I initially posted on IG too. This one requires you to switch on post notifications for individual users who’s content you want to be sure of seeing. To turn on post notifications for an individual user click on the 3 dots as pictured below…post notif 1

Then click to turn on post notifications. I wouldn’t recommend doing this for too many users. Basically your phone will buzz or ding every single time anyone posts. But if there’s content you absolutely don’t want to miss out on….it is an option.

Engage with Posts

Ultimately, once IG has closed all these little loopholes (they will eventually. Tis the nature of the beast!) and your feed is firmly in the grip of the algorithm, you’re going to need to tell it what you’re interested in seeing. The only way to do that is to show the content some love and engage with it by hitting like and/or commenting….882969155

The algorithm is set to sort and filter what you get to see, based on the content you interact with.  So hit like and comment on your favourite content, and show it some love,  to ensure that it won’t disappear from your feed.

Please feel free to share this post as much as poss! If you want your IG audience to take these steps too, they need to do it in time; and the clock is ticking down fast….

Uncategorized

The Big Vintage Sewalong: Vogue 9082 + Pattern Giveaway

03/25/16

The Big Vintage Sewalong

When I was contacted and asked if I would like to participate in The Big Vintage Sewalong…I of course said yes. It’s in aid of a fantastic charity AND since I preach alot with The Refashioners about “pushing yourself out of your comfort zone” being a good thing, I figured I should really put my sewing machine where my mouth is. Regular readers will know, vintage….and feminine…is clearly out of my comfort zone!  So the pattern I selected may come as a surprise. Don’t get me wrong here…had there been the option of a 70’s or 80’s pattern that involved trousers that would have been much more up my strata. But the selection of patterns that form part of the fundraising element of the event, are resolutely feminine and all pre 70’s. So I was left with the challenge of interpreting a very feminine silhouette…in a way that wouldn’t betray my own style aesthetic and what I feel comfortable in…

The Big Vintage Sewalong

I think the key with ANY sewing pattern is to look past the styling on the pattern  envelope and start looking at the fundamental form and proportions of the pieces. What is the essence of this silhouette? For me it is the cropped proportions of the top, how it hits at the narrowest part of the waist and is complemented by a bottom half that is high waisted and fitted around the waist and hips. This is a style that reoccurs throughout fashion decades. Not least today, where cropped tops and high waists are re-emerging as a fashion favourite…The Big Vintage Sewalong

Image 1, 2, 3 and 4

It’s a silhouette that I have been tentatively interested in exploring. I say tentatively because as a a 40 something mother of one…my waistline in no way resembles the waistlines above, lol! No matter. There are ways around that. That’s the beauty of sewing our own right? Adapting to suit us!

Another timeless “trend” that I have been obsessing about recently is denim! More specifically….gasp…..double denim!! (NEVER thought I would say that!) Denim is not new of course but it  is very prominent right now. And I am obsessed! As soon as I saw vogue 9082 I knew that denim would lend an air of modernity to the vintage silhouette…PicMonkey Collage

image 1, 2, 3, and 4

So that’s what I went for!

I knew the pencil skirt was not me (If it is your thing there is nothing stopping you from making up the dress in denim and/or adapting it to a highwaisted skirt too!). So, I opted to take the top from the pattern and make that up in denim. As I said, I graded between sizes cutting smaller at the shoulders and larger at the waist. I also lengthened  it to hit in the most flattering place for me. Then retaining the essence of “high waisted and fitted in the waist and hips” I hacked a simple wide leg trouser pattern and turned them into denim culottes…The Big Vintage Sewalong

I used a 9oz denim from Remnant Kings (see sidebar to right for exclusive discount code) for both pieces. For the culottes adding jean details like a fly front, rivets, pockets and contrast topstitching in a retro orange. Then tying in those design elements with the top by adding the same contrast stitching to that too. Essentially the same silhouette from the hips up…the same concept of having a matching set…but the variation knocks it up a decade with a 70’s vibe that is much more my style…The Big Vintage Sewalong

For me, a vintage sewing pattern is like any other. It’s about interpreting the basic shapes to suit you. That’s the point of sewing for me. But I am very pleased to have been pushed out of my comfort zone with this.  As I said, this is a silhouette that I’ve tentatively been interested in exploring, but I probably wouldn’t have gone this far with it had I not been faced with this pattern. And now?  Now I’m thinking this may become my staple silhouette for the summer. It’s much more “exposing” of my figure than the coverall long tops and skinny jeans that I traditionally favour. But I feel surprisingly comfortable, and dare I say, a little more feminine in this. You’ll definitely be seeing more of this silhouette from me in the coming weeks. So thank you McCalls for asking me to take part and pushing me out of my comfort zone! I love the result!

Vintage patterns are interesting in terms of proportions.  Just as body shape changes over decades, so does a pattern draft. The waist on this in proportion to the shoulders was tiny. Late 50’s early 60’s pattern? Huge boobs tiny waist. I don’t have the tiny waist. So I had to grade to the larger size at the waist. But I do have some boobage in tow….and the interesting thing to me about this pattern was the dart intake was perfect and there was no need for an FBA! On a modern pattern there’s no way I would have gotten away with that on a semi fitted top like this! Food for though right?? MAYBE I have a 1950’s bust!

The other great thing about Vintage patterns is that no matter what the trend, they’ve been there, seen it, done it. Some styles are timeless and as we know, trends are cyclical. Just check out these. Vintage patterns…Modern trends…

Culottes comparison

image 1, 2, and 3

kielo

Image 1. 2, and 3

Jumpsuit comp

Image 1, 2, and 3

shift

Image 1, 2, and 3

So…Vintage patterns…not to be ruled out obvs! Especially if your bod is more 1950’s than modern day.  Silhouettes and basic styles can be brought bang up to date with the use of unexpected fabrics like denim in this case….but oh….can’t you see that ensemble made up in some rad scuba or interesting digital print??

The Big Vintage Sewalong

You can purchase this pattern along with a selection of other vintage lovelies as part of this campaign and all proceeds will go to The Eve Appeal.

If you would like to be entered into a draw to win a copy of this Vogue 9082 pattern then you can do that too! To enter hop over the The Eve Appeal website and do something to help them raise awareness or funds for combatting women’s cancers. Whether that is sharing their message on your social media, making a small donation or signing up to their newsletter, or just reading their guides and getting yourself clued up on the signs for yourself. Do something, then hop back here and leave a comment and you’ll be entered into the draw. Giveaway is open internationally and closes Midnight GMT on Friday 1st April.   **GIVEAWAY NOW CLOSED**

Me Elsewhere, Uncategorized

FO: Aztec Kimono Knit Jacket

03/22/16

I’m off gallivanting elsewhere again today. This time I’m guest posting over at Girl Charlee with a full step by step tutorial for this Kimono Knit Jacket…GIRL CHARLEE AZTEC KIMONO JACKET

This one is kind of an evolution of the one I did before. You can’t really tell in these pics because my pattern matching is too good, ha ha! But there are big 4″ , grown on, fold over cuffs on this baby which is my favourite feature…GIRL CHARLEE AZTEC KIMONO JACKET

That and the way the pattern shapes across the shoulders…GIRL CHARLEE AZTEC KIMONO JACKET

Oh, and the yummy fabric…

 GIRL CHARLEE AZTEC KIMONO JACKET

 

 GIRL CHARLEE AZTEC KIMONO JACKET

 

Anyhow, if you like the look of this and fancy making your own AND winning 2m of fabric to do it with, then head over to Girl Charlee for the full tutorial and giveaway!

Sewing Gods willing, I’ll be back on Friday with my completed BV Sewalong contribution to share!!

Me Elsewhere, Uncategorized

FO: MIY Brightside Shrug Hack

03/21/16

Just a quickie from me today! I’m deeply absorbed in finishing off an exciting project that I need to have ready to share with you by Friday. From March to October, sewists from across the UK are sewing one of 20 featured vintage dressmaking patterns, ranging from the 1930’s to the 1960’s, as part of The McCall Pattern Company’s Big Vintage Sewalong. Yeah I know, right?! TOTALLY out of my comfort zone! But as is often the case when we push ourselves, interesting things can happen 😉 Anyway, I’m up for the blogger contingent on Friday, and proud to be taking part in the event in support of the Eve Appeal. You can find out more about the event, the charity, and how you can take part here. Look out for my contribution on Friday!

In the meantime, and much more in my comfort zone, I’m indulging in a little pattern hackery and guest posting at Wendy Ward’s MIY Collection blog, with this hack on her Brightside Shrug….MIY BRIGHTSIDE SHRUG HACK (

MIY BRIGHTSIDE SHRUG HACK (

girl charlee french terry

Yep, I turned it from a little cropped number into a “bootay and muffin top covering” longline version in this French Terry from Girl Charlee!

Hop over to Wendy’s blog for the full deets AND an exclusive Makery discount code! Wendy doesn’t often do discounts, so grab it while you can!!

In the meantime, wish me luck with my BV Sewalong project! I’ll be finishing it up today and tomorrow. At the moment it’s looking REALLY promising. Eeep! Fingers crossed!

finished garments, Sewing, Uncategorized

FO: Burda 102 “Short Coat”

03/18/16

Whilst I was making this coat I started to worry that by the time I finished it, the weather would have warmed up, and I wouldn’t need to wear it. Most people would make a coat at the start of the winter. Nah! I’m gonna make my coat at the end of the winter and then not be able to wear it! Well I needn’t have worried. The weather remains resolutely chilly, with blustery, bitingly cold winds. Perfect!burda 102 short coat

I could have made this coat months ago. I had the fabric. A beautiful mouflon felt wool from Dragonfly fabrics, like, 4 months ago. Truth be told, the delay was in no small way, down to the fabric being so lush that I was a tad intimidated about cutting into it until I had it clear in my head exactly what I was going  to do with it. I originally had loose plans for a self drafted kimono style coat with big cuffs. And actually that would have been easy enough to do. But the fear got me! I’d never made a lined coat before. (I’ll come onto the delicious lining in a bit!). I knew the lining and shell fabric combo I’d selected had the potential to be super lovely. And I didn’t want to squander that on an experiment. So I played it safe and opted to use a pattern. Enter the snappily titled “Three Quarter Sleeve Coat 08/2014 #102” from Burda. Originally from a 2014 issue of the magazine I believe, but now available in pdf format…burda 102 short coat

I really liked the simplicity of the design and it was very similar to a raft of coat images I’d been pinning for inspiration. The proportions were fun too. Huge oversized pockets and 3/4 length bell sleeves. It’s just about the right side of oversized for me, without feeling like I’m drowning in coat…burda 102 short coat

And yeah…I lined this puppy, and I did a pretty good job!!

So here it is in close up…burda short coat 102

The neckline was one of the things that appealed to me about this coat.  I don’t like fussy collars. And this is the perfect shape to wear as is, or pop a cowl over the top on super cold days without it getting all caught up on a collar. This part did require a little fitting. There was some annoying gaping at the back neckline, which I resolved by adding 2 x 1″  neck darts (about 4″ long) either side of the CB on the shell, then taking the equivalent amount out of the back neck facing at the CB.

I also really liked the clean finish on the outside….

burda short coat 102

Achieved by virtue of these giant snaps in a gunmetal grey!  Not visible when the coat is done up. This is a good time to mention the front overlap on this pattern. I took an inch off the entire length of the opening on either side. The overlap was mightily excessive in my view and I could probably still have gotten away with  a bit more; and shaving that much off also takes the proportions down a notch; as this pattern has much roomier proportions than the photo on the site might suggest. It looks much neater and more compact in the pattern image than it is in reality. burda short coat 102

It’s fine, because I love my new coat! But I had to make a few tweaks to get it there, ya know? The original “straight from the pattern” coat swamped me and I am by no means tiny. The fit in the armhole was right so I knew it wasn’t just a case of cutting it too big. Apart from the fit adjustments at the neck and overlap I also shaved a good 4″ off the length.

burda short coat 102

So the snaps  I used in the end are these gunmetal grey ones. Purchased on Ebay at £5.50 for 10. Which is pretty good value I think.  At 25mm in diameter they are a decent size and fit well with the colour and oversized proportions of the coat. Originally I really, really, REALLY wanted to use these larger poppers (below left and at the back in the image above). At 30mm they are roughly the size of a 50p coin and would have looked crazy in a good way. Sadly for the colour of the coat they just looked a little too shiny and contrasty and I couldn’t get that size in the gunmetal or black. But I’m sure I’ll use them at some point!burda short coat 102

Talking of oversized! Another favourite feature of this coat for me are the huuuuuuge pockets! I didn’t face these as the pattern called for. Nor did I turn the edges under. Reasoning that my machine may struggle with the bulk and that this was a felt wool so wouldn’t fray. So I simply top stitched my pocket in place like so…burda short coat 102

I juuuuust about got away with this. Despite the name of this fabric it’s not quite like felt in the fraying stakes. There is a slight tendency for fraying. You can just about see some “whiskers” at the base of my pocket. Call me weird but this doesn’t bother me one jot. It’s not the kind of fraying that is going to affect the integrity of your seams, I trimmed away the worst offenders and I am a fan of slightly “unfinished” finishes. So I’m good. But worth a mention. Also worth a mention is the pocket placement on the pattern. Just ignore it! It’s waaaaay to low! I placed mine according to where my sleeve finished with my arms at my side; so that the pockets take up the slack of the shorter sleeves and keep my wrists warm!

Also a good opportunity, with this picture and the one above, to talk about the surface texture of this fabric. One side is felt like and softly bristled. The other side (which I think is technically the wrong side, lol) is super hairy and kinda like a sparse mohair, and that is the side that I used. Just because! I figure if it’s already fluffy, then any fluff it picks up will just look like it was meant to be there, right? In any case….look at that texture. Love!

burda short coat 102

So also featured above is a close up of the seaming detail at the neck/shoulder which is another nice feature of this pattern. The shoulder and sleeves are split up into sections and seamed together which gives an interesting point of interest to an otherwise plain coat. I topstitched either side of all of those seams to accentuate and bring them out even more.

In terms of pressing this wool. Some steam and a satisfying “thwack” with a chunky wooden object will give you a satisfactorily crisp edge 😉burda short coat 102

As can be seen below. The bulkiest part where the facing meets the hem and the lining….just gave that a ruddy good bashing and the job was a goodun…burda short coat 102

Which of course brings me nicely onto the lining and how beautifully it goes with the mouflon wool!

burda short coat 102

It’s this dotty black and grey viscose lining from The Splendid Stitch. What I love about it, apart from how silky it feels, is the fact that the dots are random and irregularly placed and shaped. Which lends a kind of cheeky rebelliousness to a traditionally  girly fabric….burda short coat 102

If we can all take a moment to admire that sheen….and that well inserted lining….and the fact that I even took the time to purchase and sew on a hanging loop…

 

Which might lead you to conclude that I consider this coat to be a success and a keeper…burda 102 short coat

burda 102 short coat

Well, you’d be right! And just for the record when it comes to these photos…I did brush my hair before I left the house….it was just really, REALLY windy that day. But that’s ok. Cos mama’s got a brand new coat 😉

Uncategorized

Sponsor Spotlight: New arrivals and discounts

03/02/16

It’s that time of year when suppliers are stocking up with new season fabrics and supplies to feed our imagination and creativity as we start looking forward to sewing our Spring and Summer wardrobes. I’d love that part of the job wouldn’t you?? Trawling through all of that gorgeous fabric and ordering it by the bolt? I’d imagine it’s like Christmas all over again when our suppliers take delivery of their new stock. But it must be hard to choose right? And inevitable that you’d have your favourites! So,  ahead of this month’s sponsor spotlight, I had a little chat with my lovely sponsors and asked them which lines they were most excited about. Over to them to tell you what’s got them all excited…

Dragonfly Fabrics

Lumme Pleated Skirt by Named – this skirt is very different from any of the skirt patterns we have in stock, the pleats make it a statement skirt, this would look lovely in a variety of fabrics. We also have lots of new Art Gallery Cotton Jerseys that are proving popular and this Double Stitch Quilted Woven in taupe would be perfect for a jacket to fend off the April showers!Dragonfly faves

This new Textured Two Tone Ponte Roma in blue is unique and very soft, we’ve not seen any like this before. Very unusual. And we chose this Quilted Cotton Jersey  for it’s modern quilted look and soft feel, the colour is lovely and perfect for spring. Both of these would look perfect made up as The Sloane Sweatshirt pattern by Named – we chose this because sweatshirts are so popular at the moment and we have some great ponte roma fabrics that would also be great for this pattern; as well as expecting some new sweatshirt jerseys in stock soon!

The Splendid Stitch - the code PORTIA10 will get you 10% off your purchase

We recently received a new shipment from Atelier Brunette, and two of the new fabrics are modal challises.  This is a really lovely fabric: lightweight and oh-so silky!  I love the design and colour of this Summer Swoon colourway (left): perfect for spring and summer dresses! I love stripes and this is a great black-and-white striped ponte di roma.  It would make a great Coco top or dress!SPLENDID STITCH FAVES

I’ve recently expanded my range of plain-coloured broadcloths from Art Gallery Fabrics (and will definitely be adding more colours over the coming weeks and months!).  I felt that we needed a range of shirting-weight cotton that fell in-between our basic Madeleine poplins and luxury Spencer shirtings in terms of quality and price.  I’m super pleased with this range: it’s a really beautiful fabric, with a high thread count, fine weave and beautiful lustre!

Sew Crafty - use the code portia20 for 20% off 

I am loving having the Colette patterns in stock now, Myrtle is my favourite so far, I have two in my sewing room waiting to be hemmed. I am really enjoying having some indie dress patterns that go up to my size.
These amazing Karen Lewis fabrics are flying off my shelves, I have been a fan Karen’s designs for a long time. I totally fan girled all over her when I met her just last weekend I am so happy about her collaboration with Robert Kaufman.
sewcrafty faves

Another area we are looking to get more into this year is lingerie. We have lots more coming, but to start, we have some new pretty printed elastics. These can also be used for a range of sewing accessories. I am making notebook bands with pen holders out of them at the moment for all my stationery addict pals! Loads of designs available 🙂

Sewbox

As of today we’re excited to be stocking 6 new patterns in from howtodofashion.dk. Indie designer Nanna  in Copenhagen has put together this detailed collection which includes the  Kastrup top (below). We chose this range for it’s individuality and because we like to support indie designers wherever possible.

SEWBOX FAVES

We have a new colourway for Liberty Tana Lawn… Queue for the Zoo!
Queue for Zoo is a  well loved novelty print and is fun, lovely to work and so versatile – use for clothing, toymaking, quilting even home-styling. Liberty Tana Lawn in Glenjade pale pink is a timeless print – subtle, cool, classic – for those who want a feminine look but are not keen on floral prints!

 

Swedish tracing Paper – the code MAKERY will snag you 10% off on all purchases
This month Clare’s taking you step by step through the features of her Maker’s Workbook. Designed to take you from an early stage sketch to recording the details of your make with some handy reference material for good measure! (http://www.makersworkbook.com/)

CLARE FAVES

 

Fabric Godmother

Flute, Bye bye birdie (first two pics) and Teena (not pictured) because I love the white on black mini prints of these fabrics. Bloom viscose because those giant vintage inspired florals on a yellow background are to die for! FABRIC GODMOTHER FAVES

Jules cotton lawn (not pictured) Italian ex designer soooo soft such high quality and only £12 per metre comes in orange and yellow. Coming soon I have some amazing sherbet suiting fabrics, a blush collection or fabric, some beautiful printed viscose and more of the fabulous textured jerseys!

Remnant Kings – save 10% with code MAKERY10

The big excitement here is over our new range of Liberty Art Fabrics. A total of 47 different designs including some of the more unusual  and modern designs like this Manning  (far left) and Kerry’s Flock (far right). And the mustard floral of Capel G is just lovely. Perfect for all manner of summer garment sewing 🙂REMNANT FAVES

 

Wendy Ward

This month Wendy is busy hosting #MIYMarch alongside Dressmakers Social. An instagram daily photo challenge aimed at connecting with fellow sewists, sharing your makes and basically being pretty darn proud of what you make! WENDY FAVES

Of course it doesn’t hurt that there are prizes from Ditto Fabrics, Textile Garden, Ernest Wright & Son, Cico Books and Love Sewing Magazine right?! Hop over to Wendy’s blog for more deets!

 

Elephant in My Handbag – the code MAKERY gives you 10% off your first order

Bunny Garden by Lewis & Irene is top of my list. What can I say – who could resist these gorgeous bunnies !
Anya Organics by Monaluna is a gorgeous coordinating range of retro/scandi inspired fabrics featuring swooping birds and Geometric modern retro florals scattered across beautiful quality organic cottons, barkcloth, and jersey too…

EIMH FAVES

Sommer by Michael Miller is another fantastic range for the Spring and Summer.
More bunnies and florals – it must be that time of year !

 

Girl Charlee – use code MAKERY for 10% off your order

We have 2 new colour ways for our popular Fawn Silhouette cotton jersey blend knits.  On the site now is Turbulance Grey (with brown fawns) and to come next week a gorgeous purple hue grey ridge colour with sandy beige fawns. These prints are perfect for both children and adults (we think they make great lounge pants/pajamas).  These are in addition to our existing Forest Green and Mint Green versions.

GIRL CHARLEE FAVES

We love the retro diamond patterns of our Mod Diamonds. A light-mid weight cotton jersey blend knit.  Bright, bold and funky, perfect for summer dresses and tops.  Mustard Yellow and Kelly Green are available now, with Magenta to be released in a couple of weeks. This new sunflowers print on black cotton spandex is gorgeous!  Soft, stretchy, perfect for leggings, tops or summer dresses.  A real summer classic!

 

Thank you to all my lovely sponsors for continuing to support this blog!

Me Elsewhere, refashioning, simply sewing, Simply Sewing Magazine, Uncategorized

Simply Sewing Magazine – Issue 14

02/29/16

Just a quickie today to share my contribution to this month’s issue of Simply Sewing magazine. A quick and easy sweater update…press - issue 14 - simply sewing

 

Despite popular belief I don’t dislike colour! I just don’t like it on me, lol 😉 So sometimes it’s nice to have an excuse to bust out the colour for someone else.  And SS being the colourful publication that it is often means that they will ask me for something “punchier” than my usual palette of greys and neutrals, lol! Don’t think you can go wrong with this colour combo. So striking. The use of guipure lace (how DO you pronounce that?) was designed to add a touch of luxe and the cropped proportions designed to lend an edgier feel to the silhouette.  The original jumper came from Tesco of all places! This was my inspiration…

mustard and black

source

I also did a sweater revamp for the last issue (issue 13) of the magazine….first time I have done cross stitch since childhood!!press - issue 13 - simply sewing

I’m done with sweater revamps for now.  But the NEXT project I’ve done for Simply Sewing? I’m really excited for you to see that one! Think you guys are gonna freak!!! But that’s next month 😉

Issue 14 is on sale now. Back issues also available. Click on the link in the sidebar for deets or take a peek at a sampler of this month’s issue here.

DIY, how to, pattern adjustments, Pattern Drafting, Sewing, Tutorials, Uncategorized

The Copycat Crepe Top – (Part 3) – Grading the sewing pattern down (or up!) a size

02/28/16

Ok, so following on from Part 1 & Part 2 of The Copycat Crepe top my final step was to take the pattern that I had copied from the original RTW garment and size it down. This is a first for me. I had never graded a pattern before. But thanks to this great tutorial from Melly Sews (There was also one from Burda that I now can’t find, aaaargh!) I was able to figure it out. I thoroughly recommend hopping over to that tute as well, if this is something you are planning to try!

So here is where I was at….MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENTI had made my pattern and tested it with a toile; and in every way in terms of how it hung/fit on me it was pretty much identical to the original top. So I was feeling pretty chuffed with myself! (First time I had made a pattern from a rtw garment too!). Including the fact that it was too big. Probably by about 1-2 sizes was my best guess. The label had been removed so I don’t know the original size.  Based on how the top fit me I reasoned that the difference between the bust size of the top and my own bust size, was about 3″.  That is therefore, how much I wanted to reduce the pattern by across both the front and back pattern pieces. (Known as the “total grade”).

All the advice out there btw, asserts that 1-2 sizes (around 2″) is about the maximum you want to grade a pattern up or down by, in one pass. The reason being that the pattern begins to get increasingly distorted the more you grade by. If you want to grade a pattern by substantially more than that, then it’s best to do it in stages. Grade by 2″ make a totally new pattern, then grade that one by 2″. Obviously I haven’t done that. I’ve graded by 3″. Because I’m naughty like that.

This method involves slashing the pattern pieces along various lines, and overlapping them. Thus making the pieces incrementally smaller. (The exact same process applies for making it bigger, except you spread instead of overlap) The total grade amount (3″ in my case) is split up evenly between the front and back pattern pieces, and then again between multiple lines on those pattern pieces. So each individual overlap is relatively small, but added together they all add up to 3″. (The sleeve is addressed separately after grading the main pattern pieces).

Right, so seeing as this requires me to slice up my pattern pieces, the last thing I wanted to do was mess up the pattern I had so painstakingly created. So my first step was to trace off copies of all the pattern pieces….(then if I fluffed this I was still ok!)GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Next I drew in my “slash” lines. The process is the same for the front and back pattern pieces here. It’s a simple dartless top so nothing to complicate things thank goodness. You can see 3 vertical lines here. (Yep, they’re double lines but I’ll get to that in a moment. For now lets just call it 3 places on the pattern where I’ve drawn vertical lines, lol!). And one horizontal line. All of the vertical lines are parallel with the CB/CF lines . The horizontal line is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the CB/CF line….GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Line 1: straight down from the neckline. Line 2: Straight down from the shoulder. Line 3: straight down from the armhole.  Reasonably, when you consider a multi size pattern, then the neckline, shoulder and armhole will differ proportionately between sizes in those areas. So it makes sense to put the adjustment/slash lines in those positions. The horizontal line is roughly at the waist. A pattern will not change in length between sizes, as much as it does in width. So the adjustment here is small, and it seems from everything I’ve read, a standard 3/8″ between sizes. **(see note further down. I did end up putting a second horizontal slash line across the armscye. It may even be preferable to add a third horizontal slash at the shoulder and spread your 3/8″ between them)

OK. So a little math before we go any further. My total grade (the total amount I want to reduce the garment by) is 3″. I’m going to switch to cm here as it gets a little tricky to show the math in inches! So 3″  converts to roughly 7.6cm

I want to split that between two areas. The front & back of the garment. 7.6cm divided by 2 = 3.8cm. So I want to remove 3.8cm from the back of the garment, and 3.8cm from the front.

My pattern pieces represent half the back of the garment and half the front of the garment. So I need to split that measurement in half again. 3.8cm divided by 2 = 1.9cm.  So I want to remove 1.9cm from the back pattern piece, and 1.9cm from the front pattern piece. For the sake of simplicity, what’s 1mm between friends (at least on a loose fitting garment like this)? I’m going to call that 2cm. Just because that’s easier to work with without me losing the will to live!

So now I want to take that 2cm and divide it between my 3 vertical lines.  But hold your horses! It seems that it’s not quite as straightforward as dividing it by 3.  It’s never THAT simple, lol! But…it does make sense. From what I gather from the reading I have done, the change between sizes doesn’t happen equally in those 3 areas. (The vertical line’s I’ve drawn will directly affect the neckline, shoulder and armhole width). The greatest proportion of the change between sizes happens nearest the side seams and that vertical line at the armhole. With a slightly smaller change to the neckline and shoulder….GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

So, with that in mind I took 1cm from the slash line at the armhole. Then 0.5cm each from the slash lines at the shoulder and neckline…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

My lines here are double. The first line on the left is the one I plan to cut. The second line is drawn to show where I want to butt the cut edge up to when I overlap; the distance between those two lines is the amount I want to grade by in that section.

In the picture below I’ve marked my cutting lines with an x…and marked the distance between the two lines. Essentially I’ll be removing the sections between those two lines…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

The double dashed lines above are balance marks. They should be perpendicular to my slash lines and drawn with a ruler. I was being a bit slapdash there, sorry! The purpose of them is to provide alignment marks once the piece is slashed. What we don’t want to do is accidentally shift the pattern pieces up or down when we overlap/realign them as this will distort the pattern. Horizontal balance marks serve as a guide to line everything up again…

As does the horizontal slash line at the waist line…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

So with all of that in place I took a deep breath and sliced up my pattern along my 3 vertical cutting lines…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Then overlapped the cut edge up to the second line that I had drawn and stuck in place. You can clearly see why hastily drawn angled balance marks don’t entirely work, lol! The must be straight and at 90 degrees to your vertical line to be effective. Luckily that horizontal line at the waistline served as a very effective balance mark and by aligning that, I made sure the pieces didn’t shift up or down as I overlapped them…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

On both the front and back pieces….I overlapped all 3 vertical slashes by the amount that I’d marked. (0.5cm  + 0.5cm  + 1cm  = 2cm.)  The horizontal line at the waist is overlapped by 3/8″. Again, from all my reading it seems that this is a standard in pattern grading. For each size you go down (or up) the length is reduced (or increased) by a standard 3/8″. **(I did go back and put a second horizontal slash line extending from the CB/CF line through the armscye and overlapped that by a further 1/8″.  I should probably have done this from the outset plus another horizontal line at the shoulder for good measure. Both those additional horizontal lines  serve to reduce the height of the armscye which seems to me a sensible thing to do as this is something that does change between sizes. As it is mine worked out fine. But…just sayin….).GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Overlapping will leave areas like the shoulder…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

The armscye…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

And the hem… GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

…with areas that need smoothing out.

I tend to make a little “extension” in the area I want to redraw by sandwiching the paper pattern between two layers of masking tape…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

….and drawing my new line onto the masking tape. If you look carefully you can see the pattern through the masking tape in these pics…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Then simply cut away the excces along the new line…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Same on the neckline and shoulder and hem…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

When it comes to grading the sleeve pattern, it’s all about establishing the total amount that you have removed from both the front and back armholes, and removing the same amount from the sleeve pattern…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

Mine was 1cm from the vertical slash at the armhole on both the front and back pattern pieces. So 2cm in total. Then I took a further 1/8″ across a horizontal slash on both the front and back pattern pieces. So another 2/8″ there. Of course it’s just like me to mix up my metric and imperial as if things aren’t confusing enough, lol!!GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

After a bit of conversion and rounding I calculated I wanted to remove a total of 1″ from the sleeve pattern piece so it matched what I had done to the armholes when I graded them.

The sleeve pattern I slashed with 3 vertical and 1 horizontal line. I spread that 1″ total grade as follows: 3/8″ at the left and right vertical lines. Then 1/8″ each at the centre vertical and 1/8″ at the horizontal line. (You can also see I drew my balance marks properly this time, lol!) Then smoothed out my lines as above….and I was done…GRADING A SEWING PATTERN DOWN - OR UP - A SIZE

I don’t think I did everything technically perfectly here. Namely the number of horizontal slash lines I started with. But hey…it all worked out…and it WORKED! So as my first attempt at grading…I’m pretty chuffed. And it’s nowhere near as difficult or scary as I thought. Being able to grade up or down a size opens up a whole host of options….THE COPYCAT CREPE TOP

…I’m intrigued to learn more!

Don’t forget the Copycat Crepe  Top giveaway with The Splendid Stitch here! Closes tomorrow!!!

DIY, how to, Pattern Drafting, Sewing, Tips and Tricks, Tutorials, Uncategorized

The Copycat Crepe Top – (Part 2) – Making a pattern from an existing garment

02/23/16

Following on from Friday’s post (don’t forget to enter the giveaway on that one btw!) today I’m going to show you what I did to create a sewing pattern from this here rtw top…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

The method I used involves completely deconstructing the original top. If this is something you absolutely don’t want to do then you could try the “rub off” technique. Not a method I’ve tried yet. But the rub off technique has the benefit of leaving your original garment intact. This method though, enables you to seperate the original pattern pieces and have everything lay flat. Thus enabling easier/more accurate tracing and measuring.  In this instance the top I started with cost me £2 from a charity shop (So I’m not gonna be out of pocket financially here) It was 1-2 sizes too big (label had been removed so not entirely sure but I couldn’t have worn it the way it was). I didn’t like the colour on me (judging by the feel of the fabric there was a high level of synthetic content so dyeing  wasn’t really an option) and there was a stain right in the front. So all in I was happy to slice this one up and make a pattern from it from which I could make multiples of the same design.

The process of deconstructing a garment is such a useful one in terms of learning about construction order and construction techniques. Since rtw garment manufacture will often use more time efficient methods than home sewing patterns, it’s a great opportunity to have a delve and learn a few things that you may be able to apply to future makes. I seam ripped this top in a couple of hours one evening while I was watching Netflix. As I went I noted the order in which I deconstructed the top. (Essentially working backwards from the original construction). When I finished, I simply reversed my deconstruction list to give me my construction order for remaking the top! Make sense? The way the inside seams lay on top of eachother will tell you the order in which they were sewn. It was during this process that I noticed that the underarm and side seams had been sewn after the sleeves had been inserted flat. Prompting me to try this on my first toile and leading to much happy clapping and squealing in shedquarters when I finally achieved the perfect sleeve head! Even if this top hadn’t worked out, that would have been enough of a pay off from this process, for me!MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Deconstructing left me with these 4 pieces. (Front, back and 2 sleeves). I removed/seam ripped all  of the stitching, taking care not to disrupt any of the raw edges or stretch the fabric around the curves as this would disrupt the shape of the pieces and I want to trace them as closely as possible to what they would have been originally. I also marked the back and front of one of the sleeves. Once they’re laid flat it’s easy to lose track of which side is which and this is of course, an important piece of info in achieving smooth sleeve insertion on the final top! You’ll also notice the folds along the edges where the original seam line was.  Again…important info to have going forward as the amount of seam allowance the top is to be sewn with will impact on the final fit…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Before tracing, press all the pieces flat. (You’ll only need to press one of the sleeves obvs). Being careful not to stretch the fabric as you press. The key thing here is we’re pressing (lift, press, lift, press)….not ironing (moving the iron across the fabric in one continuous motion whilst applying pressure)…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

The next step is to split the front and back of the top in half to give the familiar 1/4 pattern piece.  (Below is my front piece). To do this I folded the piece in half lengthwise and  meticulously lined up the neckline, shoulder, armscye and side seams right on top of eachother; and pinned in place…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

 

MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

This essentially gives me a long straight edge that will become my CF seam. I pressed a sharp crease along that edge then opened it all out again….MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

It gave me a super clear and straight cutting line so that I could accurately split the piece in half…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

 

MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Retain one of those to use as a template. Discard the other. Repeat for the back piece. (nb: my back piece was a little tricky as it had a zip installed so I pinned it as I did the front and pressed the CB as far as I could. But ommitted this “cutting up the center” step and skipped straight to tracing around the folded pattern piece).

Weight each piece down, smooth and flat, on top of tracing/pattern/wrapping/brown paper. (I’m working on my sleeve piece here) I didn’t use pins as they can disrupt the line around the edge of the fabric. Carefully trace around the perimeter of the pattern piece…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

I used a dotted line snugged right up against the edge of the fabric, taking care to draw in any corner points as accurately as possible…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

I was left with a dotted line, which I then carefully smoothed out using a French curve or ruler…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Checking things like seam junctions and corners were square and adjusting my pencil lines as needed…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Cut out. Add in those all important front/back sleeve head notches and centre notch….MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

The next measurement I needed was the amount of seam and hem allowances the top had been constructed with. Measuring from the edge with a seam gauge I established those measurements (they’ll vary across the pattern)…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

And marked them on my pattern piece along with the grainline and pattern details.  NB: The seam allowance on a deconstructed garment will be small as the “trim excess seam allowance” step has already been carried out during the manufacturing process. So further down the line you may want to increase the seam allowance on your pattern.MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Repeat for the front and back pattern pieces…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Once all the pattern pieces are cut out line up any seams that will meet, Shoulder seams, side seams, sleeve seams etc) overlapping seam allowances, and smooth out the edges…you can see that neckline curve below isn’t sitting flush and smooth…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

 

MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

Again, any seams that will be sewn together, line up the pattern pieces and snip little notches to give you alignment marks for the construction stage…MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

And that’s it. I marked all my pattern details onto each pattern piece including the words “First Draft” so if I ever needed to work back to a certain point  I’d know which pattern was which. Then I toiled it…and, well it worked! To the point that the size and the way it hung when worn was  identical to the way the original top fit me. So a win then!MAKING A SEWING PATTERN FROM AN EXISTING GARMENT

 

As I mentioned, the original top was too big and consequently, so was my copy top! So later this week I’ll share the process I followed to grade it down which incidentally, is the same process for sizing a pattern up, bar one detail. I’ll be back later in the week with that post.

But in the meantime, hop over to part one if you haven’t seen it already, for the finished top, and a chance to enter a fab giveaway from The Splendid Stitch

Fitting, pattern adjustments, Uncategorized

Fitting: Sway back on a Colette Laurel (Pt I)

02/09/16

In many ways this post is kinda redundant from my perspective. Even as I type, this project has been shelved.  Again.  I bought the Colette Laurel as soon as it was released. Which was what? Like 3 years ago?? At that point I made two toiles. When I cut the  recommended size 12. It was huuuuge! So I regrouped and cut an 8. (I am NEVER an 8! Not complaining!) Then ended up grading down even further at the hips because the hip shaping on me (I have a very low hip/waist ratio),  looked like comical jodphurs.  I also had to lower the bust dart by 3 cm . That is where my boredom kicked in and my patience ran out 3 years ago and my Laurel was shelved for the first time…colette laurel sway back adjustment

Fast forward 3 years and I felt I’d forgiven this pattern enough to give it another try. I knew from last time that there were still some fit issues to fix. So I armed myself with an old kingsize duvet cover, anticipating, and prepared to make, multiple toiles. (I do question how bizarre my proportions must be to require such gritty determination!) My toile count is now at 5 for this pattern, and I’ve decided enough is enough. I really shouldn’t have to work this hard to get a simple shift dress to hang right. End of. So I have conceded defeat and concluded that this pattern and me….we just don’t work. Which is a shame.

BUT, it is a good opportunity to show you a sway back adjustment! Every cloud and all that! I covered this adjustment a few years back over on my old blog. But when I made the migration from Blogger to WordPress  a few posts were lost. This being among them. So now seemed a good opportunity to revisit it. It’s quite long; and I’ve taken alot of photos along the way. So this will be split into 2 posts. This being Pt 1…not just because of the adjustment itself….but also because, although I know this adjustment works… I haven’t quite gotten my head around why. There’s elements of it that are quite counterintuitive; and I wanted to open up the discussion a bit and hear from you on the subject. I am NOT a fitting expert. I’m still learning; so help a girl out if you have some insight here 🙂

For anyone that doesn’t yet know what a sway back  is,  (or indeed whether you have one ) it’s an above average (whatever that is!) inward curve in the spine. An arched back basically. If you have a sway back you may have noticed that alot of RTW clothes (and sewing patterns) will sit as they do in the left hand picture below. That is, an excess of fabric “pooling” or bunching in the lower back. This is because that “curve” in your back is essentially shortening the distance between your shoulders and your backside. Basically meaning that the CB on a sewing pattern will be longer than you need it. (It’s worth noting that there are other fit issues that can cause this effect in back ((such as being too snug at the hips )). But because these horizontal wrinkles stop at the side seams, and my side seams are hanging freely, I know the problem is in the back. Savvy?) If that bunchy fabric at the back bugs you, then a sway back adjustment takes care of that and allows the back to hang smooth. Like the picture on the right! colette laurel sway back adjustment

It does this by means of removing horizontal tucks/wedges from the CB and redistributing them, among other places, at the hem.  Usually it’s only a small amount.  My back curve it seems…is quite extreme.  I began by taking out that tuck at the top of my lower back; and when it didn’t quite fix the issue, I took that second tuck out at my lower back. From what I’ve seen this is relatively unusual. Usually it’s just the one tuck, and much smaller at that. It may be related to the fact that my upper back/shoulders are rounded which will also have an effect on the way the CB hangs on me; and it’s worth noting here that I have an 8″ long  2″ wide dart basted out at the CB neck to fix that. But in any case…I’ve always been taught that it’s a case of interpreting what the fabric is telling you when it comes to pattern adjustments…and you can see that the double tucks have removed that pooling fabric and allowed the CB to hang straight.colette laurel sway back adjustment

You can also see in the far right pic above that the back is overall, tighter than it was. That’s fine because when I make the adjustment to the pattern I’ll be redistributing that fullness elsewhere which will take care of that. Soooo…

colette laurel sway back adjustment

Above is what the back looks like from the right side with those tucks taken out. Turns out that squared fabric was quite useful in that it really highlights how that tuck is re-orientating the back. Notice that the CB is still straight.

Below you can see the effect it has on the hem. I’ve basically pulled up that hem at the centre by pinching out that length further up. This gets fixed on the paper pattern later…colette laurel sway back adjustment

 

colette laurel sway back adjustment

So here it is inside out and you can see those tucks in all their glory. Essentially it’s a French dart turned on it’s side.  I stitched them during the fitting process so I could get a better idea of  how the final adjustment would look. Plus it’s flippin’ hard to fit the back on your own. With pins. Ouch! I took a chalk pencil and drew over all my stitching lines and also marked the fold of each tuck at the CB.colette laurel sway back adjustment

Once I seam ripped all my basting and pressed it flat this is what the back piece looked like. You can see the tucks (AKA what I need to remove) clearly marked. Widest at the CB and tapering to nothing at the side seams.colette laurel sway back adjustment

Here’s the CB. If you think of this as a dart just for a moment, I’ve now got the centre point marked, and the dart legs either side of it…colette laurel sway back adjustment

I separated my toile at the CB and took one half to use as my new pattern. (You can see the massive dart I had to take out of the neckline too.) Then using all those points I’d marked I smoothed out my lines with a ruler, drawing directly onto my fabric, and making sure that the centre line of those tuck was square to the CB line. Make sense?colette laurel sway back adjustment

Here’s a close up….colette laurel sway back adjustment

So from here, the next step is to transfer those marks to, and make the adjustment on, the paper pattern. Then of course…test it with a second toile. That post will be up later this week. But in the meantime….if you have any insight into a sway back adjustment, have anything to add, tips for improvement etc (or if you just want to rant about fit issues and how annoying they are!) please feel free to chime in!

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