• About
    • Contact
    • Press
    • Sponsor
  • DIY
    • Home & Garden
    • Jewellery & Accessories
    • Yarn Crafts
  • Sewing
    • patternless & self drafted
    • Refashions
    • Commercial Patterns
    • Sewing Tips
    • Overlockers
  • The Refashioners

Portia Lawrie

refashion, refashioning, repurposing, Restyles, the refashioners, The Refashioners 2016, Uncategorized

The Refashioners 2016: Mirjam

08/02/16

The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

Hi, this is Mirjam from miushka.com and I’m wearing a top made out of a pair of jeans!! But first things first. I was so excited when Portia asked if I wanted to take part as a blogger in this year’s refashioners. Of course I wanted to! I really got a kick out of last year’s community challenge, and contributing my piece as a blogger this year is just a little bit mind-blowing. So here I was, with a piece of thrifted and washed but unwearably frumpy clothing: the old pair of jeans.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

Last year I made trousers from a shirt, so this year I would go the other way and make a top from trousers. I set myself two challenges. Firstly, I wanted to use just one pair of jeans to make a new piece of clothing (I only used a second pair of old jeans to produce some contrast bias binding for the neckline). Secondly, I did not want to leave any waste from that one pair of old jeans I was using. I used up practically everything from my original pair of jeans, except for some tiny scraps and offcuts. I got enough material from the jeans to make a top and was even left with some shorts to wear it with.

To begin with, I cut my jeans four times and reassembled the pieces to make the top and shorts.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

 

So simple, right?! This is what I love most about refashioning: It really doesn’t take much at all, just some bold cuts and a little constructive rearrangement. I used the bottom parts of the trouser legs as sleeves, leaving the original hem intact. The mid-part of the trouser legs I turned upside-down, so the wider parts of the legs would be sitting around my belly – I haven’t told you yet, but I’m making a maternity top here, so I’ll need the extra belly room!The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

I ripped the inner leg seams to expose the dark edges. Then I joined the two legs to form the bodice. I’d only just gotten a new toy – my very first overlocker machine – so I played around with the stitches a bit. To close the centre front and centre back seam I used my overlocker’s flatlock stitch. For this you stitch two layers of fabric together and then lay them flat open and wiggle and jiggle the layers of fabric until the seam is all flat. Magic!The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti
­

Next, I attached the sleeves, adjusting the fit a little by cutting off bits of fabric here and there. To give shape to the sleeves and to make them sit on my shoulders I opened half the shoulder seams, taking in a bit of fabric when restitching. To finish the neckline I used bias binding made from another old pair of jeans.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam LiechtiThe Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

At this point, my top was really boxy, if not huge. A good thing around the growing belly, but not very flattering. So I added bust darts, but left enough room so I wouldn’t have to add any closures. I can easily pull the top over my head. And there’s still enough room for my belly to grow (at the time of writing I have four months to go!). I finished the hem by folding it over and inserting a thin elastic strap to keep the stiff fabric from sticking out too much.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

 

So that’s the top – what about the shorts, though? Well, these were basically just left over, as I’d only used the trouser legs to make the top. I left the shorts as they were after the first cuts.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

They fit nicely around the hip and I like the length I cut them in the first place. The edges are left raw and for that decent denim look I’m now waiting for the shorts to fray with washing and wearing.The Refashioners 2016 - Mirjam Liechti

Thank you, Portia, for creating and organizing such an inspiring challenge for the sewing community. I really can’t wait to see what everyone makes of it!

Well first of all…HUGE congrats Mirjam on your impending new arrival!!  Secondly…do you know what floats my “oooooh that’s clever” boat most about this make??  The way Mirjam has cut the armscye curves/sleeves out of those leg cuffs, and that the “opposite” curve in the leftover leg then informs the shape of the neckline. Flipping those larger pieces upside down with the wider part at the bottom. Doing it like this gives maximum use of the fabric available.  And when it comes to refashioning jeans, (where flat fabric is at a premium) it’s a very clever approach and one worth noting! Replacing those flat fell seams with the less bulky flatlock approach also makes the seam more fluid. Nice touch!

You can find  Mirjam here or here. And if you’re inspired to get your refashion on and enter the Community Challenge and be in with a chance of winning some epic prizes…DO IT! Deadline for entries is 30th Sept. Midnight GMT.

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

….I think you’ve go the idea now right? Essentially we want you to refashion some jeans! (You can find the full details/small print of the brief here). BUT, if you want to be in with a chance of winning one of these amazing prize packages you need to SHARE that refashion with us in one of the following ways:

  • On Instagram: Share a pic using the hashtags #therefashioners2016  and #jeanius
  • On Pinterest: There is a community board here where you can pin your makes. (You will need to request an invite to join)
  • On Facebook: There is a community board here where you can post your makes (You will need to request an invite to join)

Only entries shared via the above 3 methods will be entered into the competition. Closing date for entries is 30th September 2016 Midnight GMT.

refashioning, the refashioners, The Refashioners 2016, Uncategorized

The Refashioners 2016: Rosie

08/01/16

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie MartinI was really excited when Portia got in touch asking whether I’d be up for taking part in the refashioners challenge this year. I’m not much of a refashioner. Like – At. All. I’m very comfortable buying a nice big piece of fabric – often much more than I need in fact – and molding it into whatever I want. But I love a mass-participation project, I really enjoyed watching Portia’s 2015 shirt challenge unfold, and I had the niggling feeling that I was avoiding refashioning cos it involved being more resourceful and creative than I actually was. So I decided to jump right in.

After Portia let us know that the challenge would be all about jeans, I started collecting inspiration on Pinterest  and thinking about what I’d like to make. This (00 Denim array) image of a pile of jeans became my key source of inspiration.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

All those slightly different shades and tones of blue look so beautiful together. I was struggling to think of what garment I could make that I would actually wear that could be made from lots of small pieces of fabric. This image made me think I could use strips from different pairs of jeans to create a colour gradient. In a way, I’d be creating myself a nice big sheet of fabric, just made out of smaller bits of fabric pieced together.

My first major challenge became getting my hands on jeans. I don’t wear blue jeans and a pair of jeans in a London charity shop costs anywhere between £5 and £8 pounds. I calculate I’d need at least 7 pairs of jeans, and spending that much money seemed to not be in the spirit of this thrifty project. I tried to strike a deal in a charity shop in Chichester, asking if I could buy 10 pairs of jeans for £15 but they were having none of it and I left feeling a bit embarrassed – like I had just asked them if I could steal money from someone with cancer. The shame.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

I had 2 massive laundry bags of homemade clothing that I didn’t want sitting at home. I sewed 86 garments for my first book alone, none of them fitted me and they were just taking up space in my tiny flat. I had been meaning to book a collection from the amazing charity TRAID  so I emailed and asked them if they would consider swapping my handsewn garments for a pile of unwanted jeans from their stores. They kindly agreed to my proposition and one of their trucks stopped by my house to exchange the goods. They had very generously stuffed a huge bag full of blue jeans for me, and the truck driver swung my bags of clothing up into the belly of the truck and off they sailed into the sunset to be upcycled themselves into something wonderful no doubt.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

The jeans were all massive! Not just in their size, but in their style. My boyfriend suggested this is probably why they have been rejected in these days of skinny and slim fitting legwear. Most of the jeans were dark or mid blue, so inspired by Portia’s suggestion of using bleach, I set to work creating some lighter shades.Here is my first lot of jeans soaking in bleach.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

From this first bleaching session, I learned that jeans need a lot of water to move around in whilst bleaching. These jeans came out very patchy where different surfaces had been touching each other. I also learned that a world of sins can be hidden by the indigo dye of denim. Lots of them had looked perfectly clean whilst dark blue, but once pale showed dark spots and stains. I started to get a feel for the past lives of this cast of trousers.

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

For my next bleaching session I cut off all the unwanted parts of the jeans – the waistbands and front pockets – divided them into individual legs and cut up the inside seams.

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

I’d like to say that was my last bleaching session… But it wasn’t. I did 5 batches of bleaching all in all. I started to feel extremely bad for the oceans and rivers as I tipped yet another tub of bleachy water down my drain. I wondered if maybe I had missed the point of upcycling, which is to work with what you have rather than force an idea. A lesson to be applied to my next upcycling project! Now it was on to the pattern.

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

I chose the Inari dress as I wanted something with a simple design and a bold shape that would really let the denim do the talking. I hadn’t made th Inari before and I spent so much time bleaching that I ran out of time to make a toile. I spent a lot of time on the internet reading about everyone else’s Inaris (if you have made an Inari and blogged it  have probably read about it!) and decided to trace the pattern off grading to a larger size at the hips as recommended by Heather.  I measured the length of the longest pattern piece, laid my jeans legs out in a rough gradient and calculated how deep each strip would have to be to make up the full length of the dress.http://closetcasefiles.com/named-inari-tee-dress-in-soft-linen/

http://closetcasefiles.com/named-inari-tee-dress-in-soft-linen/The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie MartinI measured, marked and cut out all my strips (8.5cm deep in case you are wondering!).

I was actually creating a lot of waste! This was another moment where I thought maybe I was missing some of the purpose of upcycling; to use what you have wisely, rather than to throw stuff away. Again, a lesson noted for the future.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

Before sewing, I numbered all my strips with tailor’s chalk so I wouldn’t get mixed up. I also remembered some advice from a quilting tutorial I watched a long time ago, which recommended sewing seams in alternate directions when joining long strips together, so that the resulting sheet of fabric wouldn’t become twisted. I drew little chalk arrows along my seams to remind myself which direction I had sewn in.

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

 

The fabric was starting to take shape and I was loving it. So was my neighbor’s cat, Dave.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

 

I cut the front piece of the dress and was pretty pleased with the gradient effect.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

 

Construction of the dress itself was very simple, though I had to do a lot of readjustment of the width of my denim strips so they aligned at the side seams. The inside of my dress is pretty messy as I don’t have an overlocker. But I kind of like it!The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

 

And I love, love, LOVE the finished dress. It feels strong and it feels special. It is incredibly comfy and the natural affinity of denim with workwear means it doesn’t feel showy, which is exactly what I want from a dress.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie MartinIn a conversation I had with Sarah from TRAID, she said “I love working with reclaimed denim, it has such integrity.” What a great description of this incredible material.  It really took some manhandling when sewing, and my finished dress feels sturdy, like it can undergo a lifetime of wear.

The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

I’m feeling proud that I have rescued some of this wonderful fabric from unloved jeans and turned them into something durable that has real longevity. I’ve learned a lot about upcycling from this challenge, so thanks for having me Portia, and I look forward to seeing all the other creations this years refashioners inspires.The Refashioners 2016 - Rosie Martin

 

Wow, wow, wow! What a way to let the fabric do the talking. And the subtle  hues of those blues and that ombre effect is completely beautiful!  You can apply this technique to any number of patterns. Essentially you’re just creating a large expanse of fabric from several smaller pieces before you start. But when you’re piecing a garment like this, you are adding bulk in the process. The trick Rosie has employed here is to keep the shape simple and let the piecing and ombre effect do the talking. It just works, right? LOVE this!

Rosie has just released her second book and I can attest, it’s brilliant!! You can find  Rosie here or here. And if you’re inspired to get your refashion on and enter the Community Challenge and be in with a chance of winning some epic prizes…DO IT! Deadline for entries is 30th Sept. Midnight GMT.

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

….I think you’ve go the idea now right? Essentially we want you to refashion some jeans! (You can find the full details/small print of the brief here). BUT, if you want to be in with a chance of winning one of these amazing prize packages you need to SHARE that refashion with us in one of the following ways:

  • On Instagram: Share a pic using the hashtags #therefashioners2016  and #jeanius
  • On Pinterest: There is a community board here where you can pin your makes. (You will need to request an invite to join)
  • On Facebook: There is a community board here where you can post your makes (You will need to request an invite to join)

Only entries shared via the above 3 methods will be entered into the competition. Closing date for entries is 30th September 2016 Midnight GMT.

refashioning, the refashioners, The Refashioners 2016, Uncategorized

The Refashioners 2016: Enter to WIN!!!!

07/31/16

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

 

Ok, with one day to go until the official launch of The Refashioners 2016 I am skidding and screeching up to the line with this post! I MEANT to post this over a week ago, but tech and family issues have had me hostage for the past week or so and put me very behind with the “digital workload” of The Refashioners. No matter! We are here! And this my friends, is the biggest prize package yet! *Total prizes (all sewing goodies!!!) combined are worth over £1300 and this year is split into two separate prizes. A 1st prize worth over £1000 and, because last years standard was so high, a seperate “special recognition award” worth over £300. This Challenge is open internationally and I’ll share all the ways you can enter at the end of this post. In the meantime, here’s a breakdown of what you could win if you want to take part!!!

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

 

 

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

Your choice of pdf pattern from Closet Case Patterns…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

3 patterns of your choice from Named (paper of pdf)….

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

A copy of the Sudley and Axel patterns from Megan Nielsen (Paper or pdf)…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

2 x patterns of your choice from the Tessuti range (paper or pdf)…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

A copy each (pdf) of the Lou Box Top, Baseball Skirt & Nita Wrap Skirt patterns from Sew DiY…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

Copy of the Anya bag pattern (pdf) from So Zo…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

PDF pattern of your choice from MIY Collection…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package3 x pdf patterns of your choice from By Hand London….designer stitch

5 x patterns of your choice from Designer Stitch (pdf)….

paprika patterns

1 x pattern of your choice from Paprika Patterns…

 

£230 worth of fabric/fabric shopping as follows…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

Mystery fabric bundle worth £100 from Minerva Crafts…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£25 to spend at The Splendid Stitch…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£25 to spend at The Village Haberdashery…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£30 to spend at Fabric Godmother….

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£20 to spend at Remnant Kings…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£30 to spend at Sewbox…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

1 year subscription to Simply Sewing Magazine…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

Courtesy of Quadrille Craft, copies of these 3 titles…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

Courtesy of Practical Publishing, copies of these 3 titles…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Courtesy of Sew Crafty, 3 new journals( dressmaking/craft/knitting and crochet), 1 original sewing journal,  A Sew Crafty shift dress pattern, A Quick Gifts to Sew book, A full set of Sew Crafty Enamel Pin Badges, A set of Sew Crafty Pencils, 1 pair of Fiskars Servocut scissors and a £50 e-voucher for Sew Crafty Online.

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Dominique skirt sewing kit from courtesy of Dragonfly Fabrics…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Set of dressmakers shears and stork embroidery scissors courtesy of Ernest Wright & Son…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

1 x roll of Swedish Tracing Paper and a Maker’s Workbook courtesy of Creative Industry (formerly The Swedish Tracing Paper Co.)…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

 

Fabric and pattern bundle courtesy of Girl Charlee…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Mettler thread pack courtesy of Sew Essential…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Your choice of class from a huge selection at Craftsy…

So how about that then? Pretty good right?  But we’re not done yet. Oh no no no! Last year, if you recall, the standard was so high that we ended up with a second smaller prize. Well, this year, that prize is bigger too. Enter the Special Recognition Award….

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

5 x pdf patterns courtesy of Burdastyle UK…The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

3 x pdf patterns courtesy of Designer Stitch…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

2 x Patterns (paper or pdf) courtesy of Tilly & The Buttons…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Copy of the brand new Rosie Dress pattern (paper) courtesy of Sew Over It…

The Refashioners 2016 - huge prize package

Your choice of pattern (pdf) courtesy of By Hand London…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

6 month subscription courtesy of Seamwork Magazine…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

Copies of these 3 titles courtesy of Laurence King Publishing (including No Patterns Needed…the brand new book by our lovely Refashioner Rosie Martin!)

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

Mystery fabric bundle worth £100 courtesy of Minerva Crafts…

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

£25 to spend at Elephant in my Handbag….

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize

£20 to spend at Sewbox…

And there you have it. That concludes the summary of the prize package for The Refashioners 2016. So tell me….does that make you want to dig out your old jeans and make something amazing out of them?? Read on…..!

The Refashioners 2016 - Huge Prize Package

….If you haven’t familiarised yourself with what the actual challenge is yet, essentially we want you to refashion some jeans! Simple as that! (You can find the full details/small print of the brief here). BUT, if you want to be in with a chance of winning one of these amazing prize packages you need to SHARE that refashion with us in one of the following ways:

  • On Instagram: Share a pic using the hashtags #therefashioners2016  and #jeanius
  • On Pinterest: There is a community board here where you can pin your makes. (You will need to request an invite to join)
  • On Facebook: There is a community board here where you can post your makes (You will need to request an invite to join)

Only entries shared via the above 3 methods will be entered into the competition. Closing date for entries is 30th September 2016 Midnight GMT.

Good luck!!! Get refashioning. And I’ll see you tomorrow at the LAUNCH of The Refashioners 2016 for a whole month of inspiration to get you started! Sooooo freakin’ excited!!

refashioning, the refashioners, The Refashioners 2016, Uncategorized

The Refashioners 2016: The Blogger Line Up Revealed….!!!

06/01/16

Refashioners 2016 - Line Up

So this is it! The countdown has begun once again people!!! For the entire MONTH of August (launches Mon 1st August) this blog will again play host to an awesome line up of makers ready to take on The Refashioners challenge!! What’s more, you can take part too and be in with a chance of winning a FANTASTIC prize. Your part of this challenge runs from the start of August right through until the end of September! More deets on that and how to enter in a future post coming soon. So stay tuned for that!)

For those of you unfamiliar with the challenge, (this is the 4th series) participants are challenged to refashion a garment for your delight and inspiration,  basically to highlight how cool, creative and ecologically and ethically sound refashioning old garments actually is. The kicker is, they don’t get to decide what that garment is. (insert evil laugh here) This year we’re tackling jeans. Yep, The Refashioners is all about all those unloved and ill fitting pairs of jeans languishing in wardrobes and drawers everywhere, and showcasing some #jeanius (see what I did there?)  ways to reuse, rework, and reimagine this classic garment; so beloved of cowboys and fashionistas alike!

So without further ado….I am unbelievably excited (like I could pass out with excitement excited) to announce this years STELLAR line up!!!!

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

Rosie Martin: Sewer, author, drummer and all round dudette. Rosie’s second book is due for release this summer. You can find Rosie on IG here or via http://www.diy-couture.co.uk/

Marie Koupparis: Marie is an utter delight. Her style is decidedly vintage but increasingly with an edgier “rock chick” twist. Co-founder of The Vintage Pattern Pledge you can find Marie on IG  here or at http://www.astitchingodyssey.com/

Zoe Edwards: Founder of the global Me Made challenges, roving sewing tutor, blogger and burgeoning pattern designer. Zoe is an established advocate of refashioning and zero waste fashion. You can find Zoe on IG here or via http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

Marcy Harriell: AKA Oonaballoona! Actress, sewer, blogger and general force of nature. Look she made jeans already!! Deconstructing them next then 😉 It’s OK Marcy you can pinch a pair of Ruggy’s right? You can find Marcy on IG here or via http://www.oonaballoona.com/

Megan Nielsen: I don’t think you need me to introduce Megan! Pattern designer extraordinaire and one of the first blogs I ever read, I am super stoked that Megan agreed to be on board this year! You can find Megan on IG here or via http://blog.megannielsen.com/

Mirjam Liechti: Last year’s winner of The Refashioner’s community challenge. Mirjam ditched a career in teaching last year when she discovered a passion for sewing and is now studying at the Swiss College of Textiles. You can find Mirjam on IG here or via http://miushka.com/

Refashioners - Line Up

Elisalex De Castro Peake: Designer and Co-founder of the By Hand London pattern line and all round gorgeous and talented individual. In fact all the things that might make you slightly hate a gal….except you can’t because she’s.just so.darn.lovely!  😉 You can find Elisalex on IG here or via http://byhandlondon.com/pages/about-us

Heather Lou: Blogger, designer and founder of Closet Case Files Patterns. Arguably already a jeans #jeanius this year’s challenge should be right up her strata! You can find Heather Lou on IG here or via http://closetcasefiles.com/

Ingrid Weimers: Blogger and fellow sewist. Ingrid has a really lovely style and an even lovelier way about her.  Such a cool Scandi style. Plus she’s made me want a Podenco! You can find Ingrid on IG here or via https://wethesewing.wordpress.com/

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

Sarai Mitnick & The Colette Team: The founder of Colette Patterns and editor of Seamwork Magazine. Sooo excited to have not only Sarai, but 3 other members of the Colette team (welcome to Anna, Delaney & Meg!!) taking part as a group this year too! You can find Sarai on IG here or via https://www.colettehq.com/

Sasha Werner: Talented seamstress, photographer, knitter and budding pattern designer. Stylish. Italian. Just. Awesome. Sasha sometimes describes her style as “Radical Nun”. Nun’s never looked that stylish in my day, lol! You can find Sasha on IG here or via http://www.secondopiano.space/blog/

Beth Wood: Sewer, blogger and emerging pattern designer. I love Beth’s easy style and can’t wait to see what she makes of this year’s challenge. You can find Beth on IG here or via http://www.sewdiy.com/

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

Erin Hagstrom: Fashion and style blogger, Erin was relatively new to sewing when she joined last year’s challenge, but she made quite a splash! You can find Erin on IG here or via http://www.calivintage.com/

Marilla Walker: Pattern designer and all round “polycreative”. I made that word up but I think it aptly describes Marilla! Her Maya top remains one of my favourite sewing patterns. So simple but so perfect. You can find Marilla on IG here or via http://marillawalker.blogspot.co.uk/

Joost De Cock:  Welcome the first ever “bloke” participant of The Refashioners! So excited! Joost has great style and totally mad skills. Founder of MakeMyPattern.com you can find Joost on IG here or via http://joost.decock.org/

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

Rachel Pinheiro: So pleased to have the inimitable Rachel Pinheiro joining in this year’s challenge. In her own words “tall, Brazillian & opinionated”. This should be fun….and most definitely glamourous! You can find Rachel on IG here or via http://houseofpinheiro.com/

Sally Ward Foxton:  Serial refashioner, pattern designer and lover of cocktails. I’m still reeling from Sally’s refashion of a giant trenchcoat in the 2013 series of The Refashioners! You can find Sally on IG here or via http://charityshopchic.net/

Lisa Poblenz: Last year’s runner up for The Refashioner’s Community Challenge. I hadn’t planned on having a runner up prize. But Lisa’s project was so epic it just had to be recognised! You can find Lisa on IG here or via https://patternandbranch.wordpress.com/

Refashioner 2016 - Line Up

The Foldline: Founders of new online sewing community hub The Fold Line, Kate and Rachel are going to be taking part in this year’s challenge as a team! You can find The Fold Line on IG here or via https://thefoldline.com/about-us/

Jenna Bennett: Sewer, blogger and magazine contributor, Jenna lives in the same neck of the woods as me. So we occasionally hook up for coffee, thrifting, and mutual piss taking 😉 You can find Jenna on IG here or via http://www.justsewjenna.blogspot.co.uk/

Wendy Ward:  Designer, Author, Teacher. Many strings to this lady’s bow! The sequel to Wendy’s best selling book The Beginners Guide to dressmaking is also out later this year. You can find Wendy on IG here or via https://wendyward.wordpress.com/

So what say you? August and September are gonna be pretty awesome right??!!! Get rummaging through your drawers and wardrobes and have your old jeans at the ready. This is gonna  be SERIOUSLY good!

If you want to help spread the word…(and I’d LOVE it if you did!) then use the following hashtags on social media:  #therefashioners2016 #jeanius

Grab the button code below to use in your blog’s sidebar!

The Refashioners 2015 - Grab a Button

<div class=”The-Refashioners-2015″ style=”width: 250px; margin: 0 auto;”>
<a href=”http://portiatest.devulous.com/?s=the+refashioners” rel=”nofollow”>
<img src=”http://portiatest.devulous.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/refashioners-2016-log-frosted-solid-background.jpg” alt=”The Refashioners 2015″ width=”250″ height=”250″ />
</a>
</div>

Me Elsewhere, refashioning, simply sewing, Simply Sewing Magazine, Uncategorized

Simply Sewing Magazine – Issue 14

02/29/16

Just a quickie today to share my contribution to this month’s issue of Simply Sewing magazine. A quick and easy sweater update…press - issue 14 - simply sewing

 

Despite popular belief I don’t dislike colour! I just don’t like it on me, lol 😉 So sometimes it’s nice to have an excuse to bust out the colour for someone else.  And SS being the colourful publication that it is often means that they will ask me for something “punchier” than my usual palette of greys and neutrals, lol! Don’t think you can go wrong with this colour combo. So striking. The use of guipure lace (how DO you pronounce that?) was designed to add a touch of luxe and the cropped proportions designed to lend an edgier feel to the silhouette.  The original jumper came from Tesco of all places! This was my inspiration…

mustard and black

source

I also did a sweater revamp for the last issue (issue 13) of the magazine….first time I have done cross stitch since childhood!!press - issue 13 - simply sewing

I’m done with sweater revamps for now.  But the NEXT project I’ve done for Simply Sewing? I’m really excited for you to see that one! Think you guys are gonna freak!!! But that’s next month 😉

Issue 14 is on sale now. Back issues also available. Click on the link in the sidebar for deets or take a peek at a sampler of this month’s issue here.

DIY, how to, refashioning, Restyles, Sewing, Thrifting, Tutorials

Refashion: Fleece Sweatshirt to Minimalist Cropped Jacket

01/25/16

refashion a fleece sweatshirt into a cropped jacket

It’s been all about the cozy around here. Temperatures as we know have been less than balmy and Shedquarters has been a little chilly to say the least. So an extra layer (or two) has been a prerequisite recently. Enter this oatmeal coloured “blah” fleece!

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan (1)

“Blah” because of the shape. But the fleece itself is super soft and has the appearance of felted wool….except way way softer! So I set about chopping it up….and this is what I ended up with!turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

A cute little cropped cardi/jacket with simple lines, that sits just on the hip at the front and dips down at the back. Couldn’t be simpler really. No raw edge finishing required as the fabric doesn’t fray. Just a few cut’s and minimal sewing. You can apply this to any similar fleece or sweatshirt. Here’s what I did…turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Trimmed away the neckband close to the stitching and rounded off that V shape a little (optional)…

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Cut straight up the middle to create the opening….

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Cut a dipped/curved hem, removing the hem band in the process…

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Cut the sleeves down to my preferred “bracelet” length, leaving a little extra for turning…

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Turn and hem the cuffs and bottom hem…

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Turn and stitch a narrow hem arround the neckline. This would normally be a no no but as this fabric had a degree of stretch (and I didn’t have any fabric left for a facing) I went with it and it worked fine 🙂

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

Then turn under and stitch either side of the opening….

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

In all instances stitch as close to the raw edge as poss. This will give you a super clean finish and as you can see, that rule breaking I did with turning rather than facing the neckline? Not a problem 😉 Still a nice clean corner there . You can also see a double row of stitching along the vertical edge of the opening. (Partly decorative. Partly functional)

turn a aweatshirt into a cropped cardigan

And that’s that! It’s a perfect little extra layer to chuck on and much much less blah than the original! Even better, it takes about 30 mins. Gotta love fleece/sweatshirt fabric! More sweatshirt stuff coming up this week. Watch this space!

DIY, how to, refashion, refashioning, Restyles, Sewing, Thrifting, Tips and Tricks, trousers, Tutorials

Top Tips: For “Skinnifying” Jeans & Trousers

01/11/16

tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

When looking for jeans or trousers I have the relatively common problem (especially when you’ve had kids!) of trousers that fit me in the waist/tum/bum area being waaaaay to big in the legs for my liking. Luckily I sew 🙂 So for years I’ve been addressing this minor annoyance by buying (usually thrifting) jeans than are super comfy in the waist/tum/bum area and simply reshaping the legs to fit my style. “Skinnifying” them if you like. I’ve been asked a few times if I am going to do a tutorial on the subject. Well, yes and no. This is a tutorial of sorts. But I hold your intelligence in high enough esteem to know that you probably get the gist that narrowing trousers means pinning the legs. Sewing a new seam and cutting away the excess. So while this post touches on that obvs, I wanted to focus on some of the other considerations you might want to take into account….

Fabric & Stretch: The “jeans” predominantly featured here are not jeans in the truest sense. They are not constructed in quite the same way as “traditional” jeans. (I’ll touch on that a bit further down) But they are made from a stretch denim. In my experience, denim with stretch is by far the most forgiving and easiest to work with when refitting the legs on jeans. And lets’s face it, the most comfortable to wear too! It’s also not a heavy denim. Another consideration when you’re using a home sewing machine which simply won’t have the power of the industrial machines that would have been used for heavy denim when they were originally produced…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers (2)

Seam Construction: Both the inner and outer leg seams of this particular pair of jeans were constructed using standard straight seams. These are your friends when it comes to reshaping the legs on jeans or trousers; because it means you can easily narrow the leg evenly on both sides. Traditional construction uses a flat fell seam, usually on the inside leg, which is tougher and harder wearing. If you can avoid those….do.  I’ll touch on that a bit further down…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Prep: To prepare the legs for reshaping it’s easier to completely unpick the hems then press the hems and the sides seams completely smooth and flat. Put on inside out, then pin to your desired fit. Take them off and even out the row of pins. Watch out here that you don’t narrow soooo much that you can’t get your foot through the ankle. Yep….done that. 😉

At the ankle, where you are going to hem, the pins should be at right angles to the original hem fold for the whole hem section. That section needs to be the same width above and below the hem fold in order to allow for proper hemming….tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Blending: In order to make the new and old seams blend seamlessly (so you don’t get an obvious dimple or tuck on the outside once you’re done) pin then start sewing within the original seam allowance and gradually cross over the original seamline to your new line of stitching…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers (4)

Back & Front Leg Ratio: The back leg of a pair of jeans/trousers in general, will be wider than the front to allow for the calf muscle. You’ll want to retain this ratio in order to keep the side seams completely vertical when wearing. So when you press and pin make sure that this excess fabric remains distributed at the back leg…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Ensuring Even alteration: You’ll want to ensure that you take away the fabric evenly on both legs. To do this I pin one leg to my desired fit. Then I line up both legs along all seams and use those pins to pin through both legs at the same time…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

So essentially you have both legs pinned together with the pins on top marking an identical line on the other leg underneath. Make sense?  You can also see in this pic the additional fabric of the back leg all bunched up in the middle…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Marking: Obviously I can’t sew it like that! So I mark on top and between the pins on both sides to mark my new seam line…I have a set of pastel pencils that make an awesom alternative to tailor’s chalk btw!tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Sewing: Then simply remove the pins, sew on top of my chalk line, zig zag close to that line, then trim off the excess and hem…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Considerations for “traditional” Jeans: So I mentioned flat fell seams.  Traditional jeans will generally have a standard seam on the outside (your friend) and a flat fell seam on the inside leg (not your friend!). You can see below the amount of stitching involved in a flat fell seam. This makes it super sturdy which is fantastic for the longevity of your jeans but not so great if you want to take it in at that seam. It is not possible to smoothly narrow  and blend that seam without unpicking all that stitching first. Even then you have that point wher the crotch and inside leg seams intersect to contend with. I have tried in the past and I will never bother again! So to my mind, and in my humblest of all humble opinions, it just isn’t worth it. I prefer to accept the limitations of traditionally constructed jeans and only narrow the leg on one side…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers (15)

This does of course limit the amount you can narrow the legs by before it starts looking uneven; and that is just a matter of trial and error and personal taste. When narrowing just one side of a pair of jeans I will always use a long stitch to baste my new seam line and test the fit first before committing to cutting away the excess fabric.

If you are altering traditional denim then another consideration is the thickness of the fabric; especially at the hem. To retain the original hem you’ll likely be sewing through 3 layers of denim (see the pic below) plus an additional 3-4 layers when you sew across the intersection of the flat fell seam! tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers (14)

My machine is not powerful enough to do that on sturdier denim. So I reduce the strain by removing that bottom section of hem…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

And opting instead for a single fold hem with the raw edge zig zagged or overlocked…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Another area where it can get pretty bulky is up in the hip pocket area. If you are beginning your blended seam as high up at that then there will be studs, pocket bags and top stitching to navigate. Which is why when I select jeans to refashion…I opt for those that don’t need taking in at the hips (these were the other half’s jeans)…tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

Tools/Equipment: I thoroughly recommend using the right tools for the job. In my opinion and for my machine, denim needles make a difference in the ease of sewing and the quality of the resulting stitch. For an authentic looking hem, then top stitching thread matched to the original colour will give a professional finish. For sewing over the bulkiest part of the hem, placing a shim at the back of the presser foot will keep your presser foot horizontal and help avoid the skipped stitches that occur when sewing over bulky seams and the presser foot has to “climb” at an angle over the bulkiness of it all. You can buy shims. But a folded piece of card does the job for me. Also, machine needle cases are almost the perfect thickness to do the job; and if you’re lucky your presser foot may have a little button on the side that locks it into the horizontal position.tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers

 

So that’s that. My top tips for skinnifying jeans and trousers. Anything you want to add?? Please feel free to share!!!

Happy refashioning!

DIY, how to, refashioning, Restyles, Sewing, Thrifting, Tutorials, Uncategorized

Refashion: Contrast Texture Sweatshirt

12/18/15

This sweatshirt has been sitting in my refashion pile for several weeks. I have a preference for raglan sleeve sweatshirts as I find the fit more flattering. But this sweatshirt was so soft I nabbed it from the charity shop anyway. What’s more the underside of the fabric was really interesting to me (loopy terry texture and a pinkier colour than the right side) and even as I was lifting it off the rack in the shop, I knew I wanted to play with contrasting the wrong side of the fabric with the right side…sweatshirt refashion (1)

Whilst I am not overly sold on the final fit of this garment, I am in love with the contrast elements of it. I think it’s a really effective way of adding some interest to a plain sweatshirt and has applications for both refashioning and “from scratch” dressmaking. I’m sure it’s not just me that looks at the “wrong” side of the fabric and thinks….well that’s just as interesting as the intended right side. In fact I often spend time deciding which side of the fabric I prefer and want to use. The answer could be…..use both sides!sweatshirt refashion - contrast texture detail

The sleeves were a simple case of removing the ribbing cuffs and creating a turn up to display the underside of the fabric.

The triangular panels are also pretty simple. I did wing this a bit as it was an experiment. So there’s a couple of areas where I’ll tell you what I should have done to make things easier. But hey, the outcome is pretty much the same!sweatshirt refashion (14)

I began by opening the whole thing out. I knew I was going to need to reshape it at the side seams anyway. So began by cutting it open along the side seams and underarm seams…from the hem all the way to the cuff. Both Sides.

In this pic the whole thing is opened out (like a big cross) and then folded along the length, lining up sleeves and side seams so it lays flat and I could deal with the front and back of the sweatshirt separately. This is the front. I marked out and cut a wedge from the side. From the underarm to the hem. Cutting through both layers at once…sweatshirt refashion (15)

With hindsight, I’d actually advise removing the hem and any other bulkiness like it (I had those bulky hem vents) before marking and cutting the wedge. And actually I would measure and mark each side separately rather than cutting through two layers at once. The bulk of those seams and the double layers of thick sweatshirt fabric skewed my scissors resulting in slightly “non-identical” wedges. We need them to be identical for the next step.

Flip those wedges over and apply them to the opposite side of the sweatshirt (with a scant seam allowance) from which they were cut. Essentially reconstructing the shape of the sweatshirt. But now you have those contrasting wedges either side! sweatshirt refashion (16)

Press SA towards centre and top stitch.

Then repeat that process on the back…sweatshirt refashion (17)

…and reconstruct the sweatshirt by placing RS together and sewing together from cuff to hem on both sides…

I wanted to continue the “contrast triangle” element onto the neckline and swap out the ribbed triangle …sweatshirt refashion (3)

Plus I prefer a slightly deconstructed look as opposed to a thick band of ribbing…19

Pretty simple to do this using reverse applique.

First of all I made a snip up to the stitching line on the neckline ribbing…sweatshirt refashion (4)

sweatshirt refashion (5)

…and cut that ribbing away right next to the stitching line.

I’d shortened the sweatshirt at this stage so had some scraps left over…sweatshirt refashion (6)

I cut a square large enough to cover the triangle detail I was looking to reverse applique…

…and pinned it behind the triangle with the textured side facing outward…sweatshirt refashion (7)

Make sure it is smooth and flat.

Over at the sewing machine, line up your needle with the existing top stitching around the outside of the triangle…sweatshirt refashion (8)

sweatshirt refashion (9)

Then stitch right on top of that line of stitching to secure the new scrap of fabric in place…

This is how it looks on the reverse….sweatshirt refashion (10)

sweatshirt refashion (11)

Trim away the excess on the inside close to the line of stitching.

On the outside…make a snip into the “old” ribbed fabric that you want to remove being careful not to cut the new fabric behind!sweatshirt refashion (12)

sweatshirt refashion (13)

Then with small sharp scissors cut away the old ribbed fabric close to the stitching, to reveal the new fabric behind!

Hem…and that’s that!sweatshirt refashion (2)

I’m planning on revisiting this concept with my preferred raglan sleeve sweatshirt shape as I don’t feel 100% comfy in this shape. As I said, the fit part of this I’m not entirely content with. The contrast element concept though??sweatshirt refashion - contrast texture detail

Well, I think I should call that part a win don’t you??

DIY, how to, refashioning, Restyles, Sewing, Thrifting, Tutorials

Refashion: The Wonky Top

11/02/15

So, yeah! This is a top that on paper…shouldn’t work…but absolutely does! It’s made from this thrifted crepe jersey skirt and was a bit of an experiment that kinda really worked out!THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

The skirt itself is a quarter circle construction so everything is kinda on the bias. The resulting top therefore drapes in a really interesting way. The side seams are not actually horizontal but twist slightly around the body and it drapes differently on one side than it does on the other. Hence the “wonky” moniker! But hey…if Levi can get away with twisted denim…I think I can call it a design element on this top right??THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

You can see in the images above the difference in drape. It’s fairly standard on the left (middle pic). But the circle element is really apparent on the right; giving the whole thing a really interesting asymmetric feel.

The skirt was really simply made…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

You can just about see in this pic how the grain runs on the diagonal…it’s a relatively heavy weight crepe jersey…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

VERY simple steps in this refashion. I wanted to retain the original curved hem. So I folded the top portion over…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

Then cut along the fold. This will become my neckline for the top…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

I sloped the shoulders and cut out a neckline curve…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

After sewing along the shoulders I lined up the side seams and cut out a short kimono sleeve and curved that into a new side seam…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

Worth noting that the armhole is still sealed at this stage as that was the original side seam…so that had to be trimmed off to open up the armhole/sleeve…THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

After that I just sewed up the side seams (plain ole narrow zig zag on a standard machine with jersey needles). The hem was already finished so all that was left after that was to turn and stitch a simple narrow hem on the sleeves and neckline and that was it!THE WONKY TOP SKIRT TO TOP REFASHION - TUTORIAL

This was one of those makes that took no time at all and worked out even better than I had envisaged. Don’t you just love it when the sewing gods smile on you like that?

refashioning, Restyles, the refashioners

The Refashioners 2015 is now closed…

09/29/15

So that’s that! 2 months of shirt refashioning inspiration and posts and community challenge entries and general creative awesomeness….done!  Will be announcing the winner on Friday so stay tuned for that (it’s gonna be seriously hard to choose!).

In the meantime…enjoy some more shirt refashioning creativity form our amazing sewing community…

Morna, I have no words!853402b5cd9f066556dbf2a065cc13a8

This is the first of Amelia’s entries. A colour blocked DELIGHT based on a Dear Creatures piece. She also squeezed in a second refashion just before the deadline!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (2)

Love this combination of a thrifted and dyed shirt and fabric stash scrap by Amy.The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (2)

This lady is prolific with her shirt refashions for herself and her sister….and now her Mum too!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (1)

I love the way Najah writes! You should really check out her post about what she calls the “gender reassignment” of this little number. Love it!22

Adorable little refash from @swissknitwitch on IG. Even has a matching reversible little jacket! Gah, look at those little ballet toes! 🙂The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (11)

Phenomenal work from Lisa!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (3)

Really like the simplicity of this make by Angelina. Based on Deer & Doe’s Datura pattern. And of course…it’s grey…which I love, lol!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (3)

I’ve been wanting to share this one since it first got pinned! Adorable matching Pendleton shirt refashions!!!!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (13)

Another Datura based refash from Camilla…The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (1)

Adorable refashion of a vintage shirt right?!005

The ever cool Gabby Young with this shirt refashion based on Lileth & Eve’s new  LE101 Drapey Blouse pattern…think I may be sold on this pattern Gabby!The Refashioners 2015 - your makes (10)

 

And this picture just sums up for me how much our sewing community has embraced this challenge and how much fun it’s been! I wanna party with these ladies!e65014128bf4ca6e13077793ae7c2101

I’m so sorry we couldn’t feature everyone’s makes here, but there were just so many. THAT’S how awesome it’s been. Words cannot express how excited I am that you’ve all got so involved and how clever and creative you all are!

For now…I’m off to TRY and pick a winner…which is gonna take some doing…

Newer Posts
Older Posts
Portia
Follow
Sewbox

© Copyright 2026. Portia Lawrie. All Rights Reserved. Managed by WordPress Web Dev Cornwall .