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Portia Lawrie

DIY, Uncategorized

Raffle Update – ***new prize added!***

07/26/17

If you haven’t purchased a Makers for Grenfell raffle ticket yet, perhaps this will tempt you!

H Class 100Q_3

HUSQVARNA VIKING® have seen our fundraiser, been in touch and very generously added this The new H|CLASS™ 100Q sewing machine to the prize package! Whoop!

  • Computerised Sewing Machine – Computer functions save time and make sewing easy. The ideal stitch settings are set automatically and can be adjusted for special techniques.
  • Compact and Lightweight – 7kg (15 lbs). Perfect for taking to classes and for travel.
  • 20 quilting, utility and decorative stitches, including two one-step buttonholes for all your creative projects. Adjust stitch width up to 7mm.
  • Start / Stop Button, slide speed control, needle up / down postition selection
  • Top loading bobbin. Hard cover.

You can find more about the machine here and how to purchase tickets at the end of this post.

NB: Due to warranty restrictions this prize is for UK residents only

DIY, Uncategorized

Makers for Grenfell – Destash or Donate & Win Fantastic Sewing Prizes!

07/07/17

Makers4Grenfell

It’s not overstating to say the past few months here in the UK have been crappy. Crappy is too lightweight a word really. (But I don’t want to unleash the vocabulary I would really like to use) Terrorist attacks. A country seemingly more divided than ever over social injustice and inequality and racial division. And then there was Grenfell. A tragedy so unfathomable, so incomprehensible, so heartbreaking, that I think it sucked the air out of most of us. I know I’m not alone in saying, I have shed tears. Felt helpless. Sat there with my head in my hands, staring in disbelief at what was unfolding on our screens. Not just Grenfell but the tragedies that went before it. The Queen described it as a “sombre mood, pervading our nation”. But it’s more than that. It’s sadness and anger and helplessness. My absence from this blog of late is no coincidence. I haven’t had the heart to talk to you about sewing.  I’ve barely sewn. It’s just seemed a bit….pointless. Insignificant. I’ve felt beaten down by all this death and tragedy.

But at some point a few weeks ago I realised that I was allowing the “bad stuff” to win. That we don’t overcome by curling up into a ball. We overcome by reaching out and pulling together. That’s the one positive that’s come out of the past few weeks. It’s the shining example of communities reaching out and pulling together. THEY are the many. WE are the many. The rest are the few.

So I decided to channel that sadness and anger and helplessness, into something a little more positive. A few weeks ago I launched a fundraising initiative over on Instagram called Makers for Grenfell. I hold this sewing community of ours in such esteem and I thought, there is something here that we can do. So I put a call out on IG…..and people responded.  Sewists and businesses alike responded. And so far we have raised just over £1200. A drop in the ocean some might say. But the ocean is made of many drops. And we’re not done yet anyway 😉

So today I wanted to share with you a number of ways you can get involved, if you feel moved to do so. The bonus is, there is sewing loveliness involved in this fundraising effort!  So without further ado, here’s what you can do….

makers4grenfell

The generosity of the businesses in our sewing community has been heartwarming. When I put the call out for some prizes for a fundraising raffle I was inundated with offers of help. Between us we have managed to put together a selection of prizes worth well in excess of £2k. Including some money can’t buy experiences not to be found elsewhere! Tickets cost £5 and details of how to purchase are at the end of this prize list. But in the meantime….take a look at what you could win! (btw….make sure you scroll all the way;))

Fabric Godmother has donated 2 prizes. A £50 voucher to spend online and an amazing “Day Out” package of goodies as follows:

2 x Entry tickets for the Handmade fair at Hampton court palace (must be available 15th-17th Sept does not include transport or accommodation)
Face to face style consultation with the Fabric Godmother including a bottle of Prosecco (or mocktail, to be done at the Handmade fair)
3 months Dream wardrobe http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/dream-wardrobe/
£50 gift voucher for Fabric Godmother to spend at the Handmade Fair. Overall value approx £250.

Makers4Grenfell - Fabric Godmother

 

GBSB Live have kindly donated 5  x pairs of tickets (worth £33 a pair) to their exciting new event launching in London’s Excel Centre on 21st – 24th September. (Tickets are for any day of your choice during the event. 5 winners will each receive a pair of tickets).

Makers4Grenfell - GBSB Live

 

Named Clothing have donated a bundle of 3 patterns worth £30. Winner will receive a pdf copy of Reeta Midi Shirt Dress, Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress & Top and Ninni Elastic Waist CulottesMakers4Grenfell - Named Clothing

 

Elisalex of By Hand London is inviting you into her haven! Learn the basics of dressmaking with a one-on-one intensive three hour session with cofounder and Head of Design at By Hand London sewing patterns, in her own home studio. The class will be curated specifically according to your skill level and what you want to learn or improve on. And as an added bonus, you will leave the class with your choice of three By Hand London patterns to keep you going! This workshop is based in London, NW10. Approx value £140. (Fabric not included).http://portiatest.devulous.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Makers4Grenfell-Elisalex.jpg

 

The Fold Line are also offering 2 prizes. 1 winner will receive a half an hour social media coaching session via Skype with Kate Underdown from The Fold Line. Kate will answer your questions and share lots of tips on how to grow your online community. Approx vlue £100.

1 winner will receive copies of both the Parker and Billie Collection sewing patterns worth £25 from Tribe PatternsMakers4Grenfell - The Fold Line

 

New Craft House are offering an exclusive 1 2 1 prize worth £200: Learn to make your own bra with Hannah and Rosie from The New Craft House. In the session you’ll get hands on tuition and learn all of the bra making basics, including fitting, cutting and sewing up your bra. You’ll be able to pick from a few bra patterns and styles and have your pick of Rosie and Hannah’s lace stash! The class will take place in The New Craft House’s studio, just behind Broadway Market in East London and will take 4-5 hours. Exactly date and times to be confirmed with the winner.Makers4Grenfell - New Craft House

 

Wendy Ward is donating one of her fabulous Fulwood Dress Kits woth £65 which includes:

  • a copy of the printed paper version of the Fulwood Dress pattern (which can be re-used to make more dresses!)
  • over 2.5m of a beautiful quality medium weight cotton denim fabric in a choice of 2 shades to make one dress
  • a reel of matching colour Gutermann polyester sewing thread

Makers4Grenfell - Wendy Ward

 

Cocowawa Crafts have gifted a bundle worth over £50 that includes the following:

3 balls of jersey yarn, 1 x Lily Dress and Blouse pdf pattern. 1 x Marshmallow Dress physical pattern. 1 x Mini Marshmallow Dress pdf pattern.Makers4Grenfell - Cocowa Crafts

 

Girl Charlee have also been amazingly generous with this fabric bundle worth approx £150!Makers4Grenfell - Girl Charlee

 

Minerva Crafts too with this bundle worth around £200 (this is not even all of it!)Makers4Grenfell - Minerva Crafts

 

Cotton Reel Studio have donated a £50 voucher to spend online…Makers4Grenfell - Cotton Reel Studio

 

Sew Hayley Jane have donated a “Super Stash Box” worth approx £50, packed with sewing and haberdashery goodies. (photos are for illustrative purposes. Actual contents may vary as each box is unique)Makers4Grenfell - Sew Hayley Jane

 

Love Sewing have donated a bundle of 6 sewing patterns as follows :B5988 sizes 8-16; K3955 sizes xs-xl ; M7094 sizes 4-26;  B6178 sizes 6-22;  M7533 sizes 8-24; M7536 sizes 6-22…..as well as a copy of Matt Chappel’s book Makeit, Own it, Love it. Total value over £70.Makers4Grenfell - Love Sewing - Pattern Bundle

 

Makers4Grenfell - Love Sewing - Matt Chapple Book

 

Village Haberdashery have offered this Rifle Paper Co Fat Quarter bundle worth £80. This bundle contains fat quarters of all 21 quilting cottons (including 10 metallic prints) in the Wonderland collection.Makers4Grenfell - Village Haberdashery

 

Cico Books have donated this phenomenal bundle of 6 book titles (as pictured) worth around £100!Makers4Grenfell - Cico Books

 

Beyond Measure is donating this amazing collection of luxury Hiroshima needles and pins worth £39. (I can attest….these are gorgeous!)Makers4Grenfell - Beyond Measure

 

Simply Sewing are generously donating a 1 year subscription worth £77Makers4Grenfell - Simply Sewing

 

Cloth & Candy have donated 3 FQ bundles as pictured worth £30…Makers4Grenfell - Cloth and Candy

 

Suzy Magazine have donated a year’s subscription to their new quarterly online magazine…Makers4Grenfell - Suzy Magazine

 

Sew Essential have done exactly what it says in the picture 😉

makersforgrenfell - sew essential

 

And last but not least, rounding up this epic list of prizes…

Claire-Louise Hardie is offering up her time to one lucky winner  with a full day 121 session at her North london sewing studio. AKA The Thrifty Stitcher-Sewing Producer for the Bee! If you can’t make it to london, then the session can also be taken via Skype! This 121 session is worth £170, and you’ll not only get expert sewing advice, but insider stories from “the bee” and a life lived backstage. 121 sewing sessions allow you to tailor your learning to exactly what you want or need. No dressmaking problem is too hard!  Originally trained as a Costume Designer at The Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama, Claire-Louise has worked in all aspects of Costume for Theatre, Film and TV with an impressive CV of employers that includes-

The RSC:The Royal National Theatre:Regent’s Park open air Theatre and “The Audience” with Dame Helen Mirren.
Her diverse professional experience made her the perfect candidate for the role of Sewing Producer for TV’s “Great British Sewing Bee“ A role she’s done since 2012 when the show was first developed.In her spare time Claire-louise is undertaking a Masters Degree at London College of Fashion!Makers4Grenfell - Claire-Louise-profile #2

 

How about that then people? Is that not a sewing raffle on steroids?!!! If you want to be in with a chance of winning one of these fabulous prizes then you’ll need to buy a ticket! Here’s how:

  1. Head over to the Makers for Grenfell page on Just giving here.
  2. Donate the £5 cost of a ticket (by all means buy more than one!)
  3. In the section that says leave a message of support type “Raffle” followed by your full name.

Raffle will be drawn on 1st August 2017. Winners will be announced on this blog and prizes will then be allocated (ie winners will get to choose) on a first come, first serve basis. If after 7 days, no contact has been received, then another ticket will be drawn until all prizes have been allocated. You can subscribe to this blog by email to ensure you get notification of when the winners are announced. Or keep an eye out on my social media accounts.

But…..that’s not the only way to get involved! Here are some more…

makers4grenfell

Most of us have a few things in our stash that we will never use. So I have set up an Instagram account where anyone can go & post photos of their unwanted sewing/knitting/ craft related or handmade items. You then simply state how much you would like the “buyer” to donate to “purchase” the item. They donate directly to the dedicated Just Giving Page and you sort out postage etc between you. If you want to get involved and sell your unwanted stash, then DM me over on Instagram, either to @portialawrie or @makersforgrenfell and I’ll give you the login deets!

makers4grenfell

Of course if you have nothing to sell but are in the market to buy sewing goodies, then make sure to follow @makersforgrenfell to stay up to date with new items being loaded. But be quick as items sell very quickly. So would recommend turning on post notifications for @makersforgrenfell on IG so you get notified as soon as someone posts. The goodies have not been hanging around for long. When you view the site, it may look full….but that is because posts will eventually get deleted once the transaction is complete. So don’t be fooled if you only see a handful of items 😉

makers4grenfell

Organise a craft jumble, a stitch and bitch coffee morning, a fabric swap, a raffle of your own, an auction. There are all manner of fundraising possibilities that you can organise independently, either online or in your local area and donate the proceeds to Makers for Grenfell. If you want to let me know about an event then email me at portia@portialawrie.co.uk  or tag me in social media and I’ll do my best to help you spread the word

makers4grenfell

A couple of businesses have already designated a “Makers for Grenfell Day” where a percentage of all sales on that day has been donated to Makers for Grenfell. It needn’t be all sales. Maybe sales of a particular type of product would be a better fit. And please don’t worry that it may be viewed as opportunistic self promotion. I know some businesses worry about this. At the end of the day it’s a good cause. That’s really all that matters. If you want to let me know about an “Makers for Grenfell Day” or something else you have planned. then email me at portia@portialawrie.co.uk  or tag me in social media and I’ll do my best to help you spread the word.

And last but not least….makers4grenfell

I rarely ask people to share and tag and all that jazz. But we all know how massive and awesome our online sewing community is. This blog, and me, is just one teeny tiny part of that. I can only do so much as one person. My reach is limited. But as a community we can do so much more. When we reach out and pull together. I’ve done what I can to get the ball rolling on this.   Now I’m passing the baton to you.  Let’s see what we’re capable of.

DIY, Uncategorized

Not a girly girl…(or am I?)

07/05/17

Most of you are likely aware that I have worked with Simply Sewing Mag since their launch a couple of years ago. I produce a little something for them every month. (Usually a refashion or a patternless project).  It’s a funny thing producing work for a magazine.  In a way, you could say I’m restricted by the magazine’s vision for that particular issue. But that’s never really been the case in truth. (apart from I get pushed on colour and pattern which SS love and I don’t naturally migrate towards, lol!) The Ed, Charlie and I collaborate on the garments I produce for them. And while our personal aesthetics are somewhat different, we pretty much always find common ground and an idea that makes us both go “yessssss!” in unison.

Far from being restricted, I feel more like I’m being challenged and pushed out of my comfort zone. Which is pretty much always a good idea creatively in my view. (I think you know from The Refashioners what my view on pushing and challenging is, ha!) In fact, producing work for the mag is kinda the opposite of restricting. It’s kinda freeing not to have to meet my own personal fit and style criteria so precisely.  I get to experiment with styles and shapes that I would absolutely never wear myself. But that doesn’t mean I don’t like them or have fun playing with them. Or, more importantly, that ther aren’t things i can learn from that experimentation. Always.

It tickled me this morning when I looked back at the last few issues of the mag.  As you guys know, I am probably the least “girly” person in terms of style you are likely to meet. And yet my last 3 contributions have turned out unashamedly feminine and girly. I blame Charlie. (Ed) But maybe there is a girly girl in me somewhere and I only let her out when I’m sewing for someone else, lol!

Issue 31 – July

This is such a super quick and easy make even for an absolute beginner.  Literally just rectangles and straight lines. Optional straps and belt tie included in the tute. Fabric was REALLY lovely to work with and comes from Stoff & Stil here. (Girly Rating 9/10)Press - Simply Sewing - Issue 31 - Patternless Ruffle Maxi Tutorial

Issue 30 – June

This is a self drafting tutorial for a wrap dress. Fabric is GAWgeous with surprising stretch . Requires care in the handling of it. Found this a tricky fabric to cut accurately because it crinkles after washing and misbehaves somewhat. But really lovely and glad I perservered with it.  From Dragonfly Fabrics . (Girly rating 9/10)Simply Sewing - Issue 30 - Wrap Dress - Patternless Project

 

Issue 29 – May

Believe it or not this Tulle “esque” skirt is made from a pair of voile curtains i found in my local charity shop. I then starched the hell out of them and pleated and gathered and layered to produce this! (Girly Rating…off the charts!) 😉ISSUE 29 - SIMPLY SEWING MAG - REFASHION

 

 

Issue 27 – March

Another refashion. Thrifted M&S cotton skirt made more fitted and a full length zipper added at the back. Not so much girly as feminine and oh so sexy! Size of the split adjustable by that chunky gold metal zipper inserted upside down! Raaaar!

So perhaps there is a bit of girly in me after all, lol.  Just highly unlikely in will be reflected in anything I wear, lol!

Back issues of the mag can be purchased here if you like the look of any of these and are not already a subscriber.

DIY, Uncategorized

BHF Launches “The Big Stitch”

07/04/17

An announcement regarding this years series of The Refashioners is just around the corner. So when an email popped into my inbox about The British Heart Foundation’s new refashioning initiative I thought…..what a perfect way to encourage y’all to start warming up your refashioning muscles in time for The Refashioners 2017!

And you also know what an advocate (ok addict) of charity shops I am. So this initiative is right up my strata, and hopefully yours too! BHF are calling on style-savvy shoppers to get crafty – all you need to do is use your sewing skills to personalise an item you’ve found in one of their shops.BHF - The Big Stitch

Taking part is easy, simply pop into your local BHF shop, buy an item and add your own fashion flair to it. (Refashion, embellish, customise. You know the drill!)

In addition to flexing your creativity,  and gaining a new addition to your wardrobe, any item bought from BHF shops allows them to continue to carry out life saving research and continue the fight against heart disease. Win. Win.BHF - The Big Stitch

BHF - The Big Stitch

For the whole of July BHF  will be asking you to “share your flair” by tagging your ‘before’ and ‘after’ pictures on Instagram with the hashtag #TheBigStitch. The best photos will be featured on their photo wall of fame.

All tagged photos posted between 1st and 31st July will be entered into a competition for the chance to win a special night out at a West End show with Just Jodes (I didn’t know who she was either. It’s an age thing! Sorry Jodes!) for you and a friend.  Here’s the official skinny on Jodes:

“YouTube sensation, Just Jodes, who has over 160k subscribers and nearly 80K followers on Instagram, will be lending her support to the campaign. With a keen eye for fashion and style, she will be holding tutorials on her channel throughout the month to provide her tips on customisation and upcycling. Just Jodes will demonstrate her key style tips, showing how easily an item can become a wardrobe staple.”

Hey, whoever Just Jodes is, it sounds like sewing related fun for a good cause….what’s not to like 😉BHF - The Big Stitch

 

DIY, Uncategorized

Vote for me (if you want to of course!)

04/10/17

 

So I’m not sure if all you remember this coat from last year? I guess it depends how long you have been following my escapades!

It’s the coat I made from old jeans and thrifted lining and actually am super proud of and has had LOTS of wear this winter. A denim duvet to wrap yourself in in the depths of winter? Yes please!

Weeeeelllll….this here coat has been shortlisted as a finalist in the refashioning  and readers choice categories for Dressmaker of the Year! Yowzers! More (very detailed) info on the process and what was involved in making this coat (erm….alot was involved!) can be found in the original post here. If you like what you see and think it’s worth your vote then you can vote for me here until 25th April! The awards are run by Make it Today: Dressmaker Magazine and you will be entered into a prize draw simply for voting not to mention the fact that it would be totally awesome for a refashioned garment to win an award like this! And check out the other awesome makes nominated too. Feel very proud to be in such company 🙂

 

DIY, Giveaways, how to, Sewing, Tips and Tricks, Tutorials

Perfect Pinning (+ a giveaway!!)

02/22/17

Pins. It’s just as simple as sticking them through the fabric right? Well, not quite. Firstly, there’s the type of pin you use. Right tools for the right job applies to pins as much as it applies to any other sewing tool. Some pins are longer/sharper/finer depending on the type of fabric and project you are undertaking. Some excellent info about pin types and their uses here, here, and here….pinning tips

Then there is the question of quality. As with many tools, not all pins are created equal. The best pins will slide smoothly through your fabric without snagging and without force; and they will last you many years without becoming blunt or rusting if used and stored correctly. My personal bug bear are cheap pins with plastic heads. Ack! I only ever use glass headed pins. They tend to be of better quality and most importantly, if you’re pressing around them, they don’t melt if you accidentally touch them with the iron! (I learnt that lesson early!)

But what about how to pin? It’s one of those things that, when I first started sewing, I assumed was a no brainer.  Stick it through the fabric. Job done. Right? Well no. There’re subtleties to pinning, as with any sewing technique. Little things. But things that collectively, can incrementally improve your sewing. So I thought I’d share a few of my “personal pinning protocols” (shameless opportunity for alliteration seized, ha!). Little things that I was taught when I first learnt to sew and stick to still…and the logic behind them…pinning tips

This is the way I pin the most. Always within the seam allowance. So if my pins do end up leaving holes (some fabrics render this likely) then they are not visible on the outside of the garment. It also means that I can leave my pins in place until the very last second as they pass to the side of the presser foot rather than the middle of it. So shifting of fabric is minimised. I will also always pin with the points facing towards the presser foot. It makes them easy to pull out as you go. (If they were facing the other way…well…cack handed!)

pinning tips

When sewing some seams, you’ll be required to stop at a given point and back stitch and/or switch to a different stitch length. (Think preparing a seam for zip insertion for instance). I always mark this point with a different coloured pin, pinned at right angles to my other pins. It just gives me a visual aid and a precise marker as to where I want that needle to stop.

pinning tips

When pattern matching is important I will pin at right angles to the seam that I am sewing. When sewing stripes for instance, I will pin stripe on top of stripe at regular and small intervals.  Pinning at right angles “locks” the fabric more effectively than pinning in a linear way. The difference on a plain and/or stable fabric is negligible. But even minimal shifting will be visually really obvious on stripes. I will also employ this method of pinning on more slippery fabrics. There is an argument for always pinning this way all the time. But I tend to employ it when I want to ramp up the accuracy and precision on seams where the slightest shift would be really obvious either visually or where accurate alignment is vital. (easing in collars, sleeves, necklines etc) If I can get away with just using a few pins, pinned vertically and spaced far apart then I will always default to that. Heck, I have been know to dispense with pins altogether. Some projects are more forgiving than others. But sometimes, when it absolutely has to be accurate, this is the method I go for.

pinning tips

Now I am right handed. And my pin dish sits to the right hand side of my machine. So actually the way that I have pinned in the previous photo is actually a bit illogical.  Because I end up pulling the pins out with my left hand, passing them across to my right hand (or worse, holding them in my mouth as I go!) so I can put them in the pin dish to the right hand side of me. It’s actually a tad cack handed for me. And I have no explanation for that. Used to bug my sewing teacher no end, lol! When pinning at right angles it would make more sense to have the heads facing to the right like this. Just saying. But the cack handed way in which I do it is now so ingrained in my muscle memory, it’s unlikely to change now!

How you pin isn’t just about the direction of pinning of course. It also has to do with how you hold the fabric when you pin. This is how I would automatically put my pins in when I first started sewing. I’d pick the fabric up and stick the pins in like so…pinning tips

That is until my sewing teacher walked up and slapped my hand! (Old school she was!) I will preface this next bit of advice by saying that, as with most rules, there are exceptions. There are times that you can get away with doing this and times you when it will affect the accuracy of your pinning. Depending on the fabric, as you pick it up like this, the layers can shift. On trickier, more slippery fabrics, the more you move them, the more they shift….

pinning tips

As a rule, if you can keep your fabric flat like so…

pinning tips

And pin on the flat, then there will be less chance of layers shifting and therefore, more accuracy across your project.

Talking of keeping things flat…pinning tips

Pins are not always the final step when you absolutely must have a completely flat and secure fabric sandwich before you pass it through the machine…zips are the most obvious example of a situation where it’s vital that everything lies flat and secure before you put a permanent line of stitching in there…

pinning tips

If you’ve ever questioned why you ought to baste a zip rather than just pin it…just look at the photo above and the effect that pinning can have on your seamline, compared to how flat the fabric edge is on the basted section! Now I’m not saying baste everything. Life (and sewing time) is too short for that! But when it absolutely has to be accurate, you’ll be pleased you added in the extra step. Promise!

So, if all of that has you wanting to up your pin game, then here’s a treat for you. The pins featured in this post (above and below) are Hiroshima pins. Japanese pins of superior quality. They come in the most gorgeous packaging (I’m such a sucker for packaging)…hiroshima pins
hiroshima pins

 

And they are like miniature works of art in their own right. In order below are tulip hiroshima glass headed patchwork pins, Akari pins and Shizuku pins…pinning tipshiroshima pinshiroshima pins

Aren’t they STUNNING! They are part of the newly expanded range of hiroshima pins now available at Beyond Measure. Grace has the most exquisite taste. And she is very generously offering one reader the chance to win 4 packs of luxury Hiroshima pins of their choice.

To be in with a chance of winning simply subscribe to Grace’s newsletter here. Additional entries for facebook and instagram follows. Then leave a comment here to let me know how many entries (ie what you’ve followed/subscribed to). Giveaway is open internationally and closes at midnight GMT on Sunday 26th February.

Good luck and happy pinning!!

DIY, Uncategorized

A trip to Denmark….

02/12/17

If we hang out in the same social media circles you may be aware of this already. If we don’t then you may not be! In either case, here’s the full skinny on a recent trip to Denmark that I think you will find interesting and exciting!

A couple of weeks back, myself and 6 other UK sewists, were invited by Danish brand Stoff & Stil (meaning Fabric & Style) to visit their Denmark store and HQ.  This is a brand that has has a pedigree of over 30 years and will be familiar to sewists in Denmark, Germany, Sweden, and Norway.  But less so to those of us in the UK, where they only launched their UK site back in May of last year.  They currently have 5 webshops and 23 bricks and mortar shops in the aforementioned countries.  They only ship to countries for which they have a dedicated webshop. So currently Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Germany and the UK but they aim to expand to other European locations in the longer term. This trip was part of their strategy to reach out to the UK market. Their newest venture; and that’s where we come in. We go there, we listen, we come back, we tell you all about it. (Clearly it would be ridiculously impractical, but I honestly think if they could’ve invited the entire uk sewing community out there they would’ve done!)   As hosts they were faultless, warm, welcoming, as passionate about making as we are, and thoughtful . Like, they think of EVERYTHING kind of thoughtful. And for me, this was my lasting impression of Stoff & Stil as a brand. They think of everything.

First stop was their retail space….and this is what we saw….STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

Essentially, a department store for makers!  I have never seen anything on this scale in the UK! Seriously. it was huge…STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

About 8 aisles like this one, stocking all manner of fabrics, yarn, patterns, haberdashery and supplies for all manner of other crafts like jewelry making, upholstery, bag making, lingerie supplies….even shoe making!!

Stoff & Stil’s retail strategy is for mega spaces like this. (And they were quite open about the fact that they would love to launch one of these stores in the UK! Yesssss! I know, right?!)  A minimum of 10,000 sq ft. Their approach to these spaces is very fresh and innovative.  It was so exciting to see our  sewing industry being approached with the type of scale, planning, and attention to detail that you would expect from a top end high street retailer.  It wasn’t just a place to buy supplies, but a carefully planned space, packed full with inspirational displays and ideas. You could literally get lost in there for days…ok maybe hours…but I bet  I could do days! If they put a coffee shop in there, I would be there for a whole day at least!

I love this picture of Marie, Fiona, and Rachel below. Marie’s gesture perfectly encapsulates how overwhelming it is to be given just an hour (our schedule was jam packed) to look around, lol!  Head in hands….where the hell do I start?!!STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

That was one crazy hour. Lots of “oooohs” and “ahhs” and “oh my gosh have you seen this?!” Lots of fabric fondling. Trying to narrow down a selection of fabrics that size to a tiny edit of what you think you can get away with adding to your stash at home.  (This is not a shop that encourages restraint. Thank heavens I don’t have limitless funds, or it could’ve gotten seriously crazy!) A slight air of hysterical panic as that hour ticked by and we realised we had barely scratched the surface. STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

Karen went for this showstopping boiled wool.  I can just see a gorgeous coat in this. Karen can rock red 🙂 In the background (On top and at the end of each stand) and foreground you can see the displays and little staged vignettes I was referring to, that give the whole place more of a high street fashion and home retailer feel.  Like John Lewis but for makers. And that’s how Stof & Stil see themselves. A fashion and interior company with their own designs and collections. (They have over 600 employees including a team of designers so many of their prints and other products are designed in house)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

Here’s what I managed to pick out! I got sucked in by their gorgeous velours in teal and grey (naturally, lol!) plus some ribbed jersey. And that bottom fabric is my absolute fave!  In their look book,  (which I’ll come to) it’s made up as a kiddies onesie! Cute! Needless to say I won’t be making a cute onesie out of mine , but it’s always interesting to me how 10 people can look at the same fabric and have completely different ideas for it.

I didn’t even make it to the pattern section for a proper look. There are hundreds of patterns in this section with sample garments of some of them made up so you can try them on…I go into a little more detail about their patterns in the video (yes video!) at the end of this post….(although it’s just my voice. I haven’t jumped on the Vlogger bandwagon JUST yet)…STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

Nor did I have a proper look at the vast range of haberdashery! But I took a few snaps so you could get a feel for the sheer volume of stuff there was!STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

This is one of those “attention to detail” things I was talking about. Yarns made up into swatches so you can see and feel how the knit up. So simple. Like face palm simple. But I’ve not seen it before.

Next stop was Stoff & Stil HQ…STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

We went on a tour of their whole facility but were not able to take photographs of the warehousing operation. But it was seriously impressive. Think Amazon in terms of scale (Huge) then add clinical efficiency and precision, lot’s of light and shiny floors that would pass muster with a surgeon. It was like a sewists version of “the tour” in Charlie and the chocolate factory. Amazing. Oh, and women! It struck me that easily 75% of the workforce that we saw were women.  I don’t really know why that’s relevant, but for some reason it made me feel immensely good to see it. And the fact that the majority of them are active and passionate makers themselves certainly made me feel that this is a company run by makers, for makers.

We spent most of our day in this bright and airy room, listening, learning, playing with fabrics….STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

We heard about the company’s heritage. From the first delivery of surplus stock sold on a market stall in the early 80’s…..(This is Peter and Marianne Lerche who founded the company in 1980 and still own it today)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

 

…..to how their catalogues have evolved into full on inspirational lookbooks over the years….STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

These catalogues/lookbooks are worth a mention actually. I personally think they are a key part of what makes this company unique. Packed with inspirational images and examples of garments/items made up in Stoff & Still products with the corresponding product numbers. It’s basically like a Next catalogue for makers. It’s genius really. It just sits on your coffee table and there you have temptation right at your fingertips, lol! The only kicker is….it’s not YET available in the UK. It won’t be until their UK sales reach a level that justify  the commitment of a translation and print run of these books. (Which actually shouldn’t be long because their price points are very reasonable) But that is their aim (as is the bricks and mortar store).  We did suggest to them that they make this available as a pdf so that may be a possiblilty. But for now, not available in the UK.

However I did manage to get some images from the SS17 catalogue and permission to share so I’ve put together some slideshows for you so you can see what I’m talking about…just click on whichever link is of interest…

Adult fashion: https://youtu.be/VobXmdR3Hp4

Interiors:  https://youtu.be/BnK2ViOU6wg

Kids Fashion: https://youtu.be/bVPnO2j62OI

Kids interiors:  https://youtu.be/FuWx6ztiUSI

Everything in those images uses fabric/patterns/supplies from Stoff & Stil that are either available individually or in some instances, kit form. I do have a copy of the catalogue (not in English obvs) but if you see anything and want to know the product number so you can find it on the website, drop me a line.

In cased you missed it on social media you can get 15% off everything on the UK site with code: portialawriexstoffstil until 15th Feb (This Wednesday)

There were also alot of things about their website that I liked and found unique so there’s a little tour of that in the video below. I apologise in advance for the amount of times I say “um” n this video, lol!  Oh, and the Essex twang that has crept into my accent over the years, ha ha!…

So there you have it. The full lowdown on our trip to Denmark. (In the interest of full disclosure, we were not paid for either the two days of the trip or anything we have done subsequently. Stoff and Stil did pay for flights, hotel and food. We received a discount voucher towards any fabric purchase we made plus a few very small complimentary gifts. None of which is enough to make any of us give a false review of any company. So please be assured all views are genuine).  My genuine view is that I like what this company does and what it is aiming to do.STOFF AND STIL UK BLOGGER TRIP (21)

If I sound enthusiastic it’s because I am. It’s hard not to be enthusiastic about companies that are as passionate about what we do as we are.  (I’m wary for instance, of new suppliers to our industry that see it purely as an emerging market to exploit, without having a genuine passion for it first. This is not one of those companies in my opinion. These guys have earned their stripes over 30+ years with a genuine passion for making and quality.) And the prospect of having a bricks and mortar version of this store in the UK, and an English version of their lookbook…..well….that’s exciting to me. I can imagine meetups being arranged and whole days being spent in a space like this can’t you?

Definitely needs it’s own coffee shop though, don’t you think?

DIY, how to, Sewing, Tips and Tricks, Tutorials, Uncategorized

How to shorten metal open ended zipper….

01/30/17

Very specific and what you could call “niche” post today. But I cannot be the only one to hit this obstacle so I’m sharing.  On a recent project  I hit a bit of a snag with this metal open ended zipper. (Who am I kidding. I hit a snag on EVERY project. Occupational hazard for a refashioner!) It was about an inch longer than I needed it to be. I’ve marked with chalk where I wanted the stoppers to be…Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

 

Shortening a standard closed and plastic zipper is pretty straightforward.  With this zip though, I couldn’t shorten from the bottom. (Damn). That’s where the fittings are that make this an open ended zipper. It’s chunky and the design I had in mind called for the the zip stops (at the top of the zip) to still be visible on the finished garment.  So simply sewing thread stoppers wasn’t going to cut it.  (double damn).Shorten a metal open ended zipper

In some cases the fabric that encloses the end of the zipper at the top is sufficient to act as a stopper in itself. But in this instance that was not the case either….I couldn’t order another zip as the length I needed was not standard; and in any case, I much prefer to use what I have if I can. (Damn, damn, damn, damn, damn). So, in short (pun intended), I needed to shorten the zip from the top instead…

So if you ever find yourself in a similar position, here’s how to shorten an open ended metal zipper…Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

I needed to move this little sucker (above) down to where that chalk mark is. And this is one chunky metal zipper, so there was some serious brute force involved in this.

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Before doing anything,  unzip the zip about halfway down and create some makeshift stoppers with pins. If you’re anything like me you may inadvertently pull the zip pull straight off the top after you’ve removed the stoppers. Yes I have done that. After the zip was sewn into a garment. (Face palm).

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

You’ll need some jewellery pliers and side cutters for this…

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Using the side cutters, and starting with the zipper tooth in front of your chalk mark, snip the end of the zip tooth off… then cut away as much of the rest of it as you can…

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Then use the pliers to wiggle and remove what’s left…

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Remove 5 or 6 teeth in this way, on both sides of the zip….

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Cut away the excess zipper tape…

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

You’re left with these zipper stops on the parts you cut away. Now you CAN buy zipper repair kits like these. And there will be replacement zipper stops included in those. If those meet your needs you can skip the next couple of steps. But  I didn’t have time to order and wait for a kit to arrive (I was on a deadline and everything is right down to the wire right now). Plus, you know, that “working with what I have” thing in me!

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

This was by far the trickiest step. It’s on there pretty firmly so this is where the brute force part comes in. Use the pliers (A second pair comes in handy if you have them) to wiggle/lever/coax the zipper stop off the zipper tape. Not shown in this pic, but I found cutting away the zipper tape as close to the stopper as possible, and then fraying it, aided the process of loosening it’s grip a little. As did swearing.

shorten a metal zipper - portialawrie.co.uk

Eventually you’ll get the little sucker off. Open it up slightly (2 sets of pliers again)…

shorten a metal zipper - portialawrie.co.uk

Slide it onto the zipper tape in the position of the first tooth you removed and use the pliers to clamp it firmly in place. (Repeat for both sides of the zip)

Makery - How to Shorten an open ended metal zipper

Ta dah!

So yeah! Random I know. But someone, someday, is going to find this useful. You’re welcome 😉

 

DIY, how to, refashioning, Sewing, Tutorials, Uncategorized

Refashion: Vintage Jersey Dress to Tunic Shirt

01/17/17

Finding time to blog my makes (or indeed sew much for myself) has been a struggle for the latter part of 2016. Since The Refashioners in fact. Many things last year took their toll on my sewjo ( What a bloody awful year it was!) and as a result I’ve neglected this blog for the last few months.  I think I’ve been having some kind of  existential blogging crisis. For a while I questioned whether I was just falling out of love with blogging and had my head turned by Social Media. Recently I’ve been more inclined to share on IG. It’s quick. And writing a blog post is not. But I don’t think it’s that….VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

It’s more to do with my sewing and me personally. Creatively I’ve been in a bit of a rut. Emotionally I’ve felt the need to go into my shell and hibernate for a while. I’m doing a gazillion things….but none of them “properly”.  (Which I hate). I have a gazillion ideas.  But precious little time or energy. And when presented with a time window I can use, I’m paralyzed by indecision and procrastination; or worse still, rushing and bodging! So none of them are reaching fruition. I think I just need to regroup.  Take a long deep breath.  How do you clear a creative log jam? Sometimes absorbing myself in simple, mindless tasks is enough for me. Things that occupy me just enough, but not too much. And as evidence of that, right after this little simple refashion, I sewed up something else, that I am really proud of and will share  with you, I promise. But in the meantime….here’s my little icebreaker…

VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

Unmistakable vintage M&S label. Back when it was called St Michael! Oh yeah, and pre vanity sizing! This dress dates from the late 70’s I’d say. LOVE the geometric print and thick jersey fabric.  Love the button placket and mandarin collar. Not so keen on the frumpy bottom half. A younger sewist with better legs than I, may choose to modernise this little beauty by going down the mini dress route. On the right person that would look ace. I am not that person 😉

VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

So I altered the bottom section to reflect one of my favourite details. A shirt tail hem. Very simple alteration. Lay the garment flat with side seams (in the centre of this pic) pinned on top of eachother.  (Doing this ensures any alteration cuts you make will be even & centred) Draw out your curves in chalk making sure the lines are at 90 degree angles at the folded edges that are the CF and CB (this prevents a peak or wedge in the centre of your curved line when you open the garment out after cutting). The curves meet at the side seam.

VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

I pinned along my chalk lines to stop anything shifting as I cut. Cut just underneath the line of pins. I eyeballed an approximate hem allowance. I wasn’t feeling the need to be precise, but you could always mark one in. To finish the hem I simply serged the raw edge, turned under and stitched in place. (Where the curves meet at the side seams, it helps to unpick a little of the side seams to give you room to manoeuvre and turn under neatly).

VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

This pic better shows the effect before and after cutting. Apologies for the poor quality. A) It’s winter. B) I totally neglected to take a proper before photo.

VINTAGE JERSEY DRESS REFASHION (5)

A simple alteration which makes this garment much more wearable for me. It’s super warm and cosy too! It’s bugging me a little that I didn’t swap to black thread to sew this hem. It didn’t seem as obvious in the gloomy light I was sewing in at the time.  I may go back and change that I think. I have a “sewlution” this year. I don’t normally do resolutions. But if I have one sewing related one this year it’s this: ” Sew less, just sew it better”.  If I’m going to fully break out of my rut, niggles like that are not going to help. Best I go back and sort that hem out then!

DIY, how to, overlocker, overlockers, Sewing, Tips and Tricks, Tutorials

Overlocker Tips: Sewing a Knit Neckline

11/23/16

OK, so another overlocker quickie today. If you’re not new to overlockers, then look away now, because you’ll already know this. But if you are sewing your first steps on an overlocker, after sewing side seams, this is the next thing you are going to want to know. Adding a neckline band…how to sew a knit neckline

(Actually this technique can be applied at the cuffs and hem too, as an alternative to straightforward hemming. Only difference there, is that the edges are straight and not curved and the band you are applying doesn’t necessarily need to be that much shorter than the edge you are applying it to. But that’s another post! )

And before anyone asks, because yes, this fabric is awesome, it’s from here 😉

Back to necklines. A neckline band is simply a long strip of fabric, sewn together (at the short ends with RS together) to form a loop, then folded in half (WS together with raw edges aligned)….how to sew a knit neckline

The total circumference of the neckband should generally be 2-3″ shorter than the circumference of the neckline you are applying it to. (This can be dependant on the amount of stretch in your fabric, but in most cases 2-3″ gets you there. I have an in depth post on that coming soonish). The band is cut shorter,then the stretch inherent in the knit fabric is used to ease it onto the neckline. Once attached, it will ping back to it’s original size and in the process it will pull the neckline inwards slightly; and this action is what allows the neckband to sit flat against the body. Make sense?

With the neckband sewn in a loop and folded over, mark the CB (the seam on your band), CF, and sides with pins. (Essentially 4 equally spaced pins dividing your neckband into quarters). On your neckline mark the CB and CF with pins…how to sew a knit neckline

 

With your garment right side out, we are pinning the band to the neckline with raw edges aligned. We are pinning at 4 points initially. Pin the CB and CF of your band to the CB and CF of your neckline. Then pin the sides of your band, to the shoulder seams points of your neckline…how to sew a knit neckline

 

Between those four points you have pinned,  the neckline will be longer than the band as pictured below. Obviously, because we cut the neckband shorter…how to sew a knit neckline

 

By stretching the neckband we can get it to “temporarily” be the same length as the neckline…how to sew a knit neckline

 

Work your way around each quarter section of the neckband, (the gaps between each of the original four pins) stretching it to fit the neckline and pinning in place as you go. Pin perpendicular to the raw edge (vertically) as pictured.how to sew a knit neckline

 

There it is all pinned in place. Don’t worry that the neckline looks longer and wavy still. We sort that out at the machine…how to sew a knit neckline

When you serge around this seam, you will need to stretch the neck band again. So you are holding the whole thing at tension, (so the neckband and neckline sit flat and flush against eachother) as it passes under the presser foot. (Remove the pins as you go! )

It helps to orientate the garment so that when you sew, the neckline (which is slightly longer) is facing the feed dogs, and the neckband is on top. In the same way as a sewing machine will feed the bottom layer of fabric ever so slightly quicker, so does a serger. Not massively. But it helps. ( You can also engage the differential feed on your serger to aid this process. But that’s another post.  Stretching the neckband manually like this works just fine!)how to sew a knit neckline

When serging “in the round” like this, just before your needles reach the point where you started, manouver the edge of your seam to the inside of the blade. So you continue sewing but are no longer cutting. (You don’t want to cut the overlock stitches you have already sewn). Continue sewing about 1″ past your starting point, so you have a double section of overlock stitch. (It’s a bit like the equivalent of a backstitch on a standard machine without the going backwards part! You’re securing the first part of your stitching by going over it again). At this point, stop sewing, lift your presser foot, then serge off a chain long enough to tie off.  (See previous post on finishing off your thread tails).

Et voila. A neckline to be proud of!how to sew a knit neckline

Thing with an overlocker is, it’s more noisy than it is actual scary. Just like your standard machine, it will only go as fast as you stamp on the foot pedal. Don’t stamp on the foot pedal is what I meant to say! Go gently, and you’ll be fine. And in no time at all you’ll be wondering what all the fuss (and fear) was about and you’ll be whizzing through necklines lighting fast. (Oh and at this stage above, you would press the seam to the inside and topstitch down using your standard machine. I’ve pressed but not topstitched here because my Janome HATES knits. So I’m on the hunt for an alternative to replace her. Any suggestions welcomed. If your standard machine sews knits like a dream, I wanna know!)

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