Portia Lawrie

DIY, hemlock tee, how to, pashminas, refashioning, Restyles, Thrifting, Tutorials

DIY Pashmina Refashion – Number 3

Of the 3 pashmina refashions, this is the one where I treated the pashmina, essentially, as a piece of flat fabric. With the other two I utilised the full width and/or length of the pashmina as well as retaining the selvedges. They were completely patternless projects. For this make, I used an existing pattern, with one minor alteration….

Essentially, this one is an incarnation of the Hemlock Tee. The only difference being that instead of using the set in sleeve that came with the pattern, I adapted the pattern to incorporate a “grown on” kimono style sleeve.  Although the Hemlock Tee is designed with knits in mind, there was enough ease in this pattern for me to use it on a woven fabric like this pashmina…

To start I folded the pashmina in half length ways, then again width ways, placing the pattern piece on the folded long edge…

To create the kimono sleeve I simply extended the shoulder line up to the selvedge….

Starting on the selvedge, in line with the armhole notch on the pattern, I drew a curved line that blended into the side seam about 3″ down from the armhole notch….

Once cut and opened out I had two identical pieces.  Note the sleeve hems…they won’t require finishing as they are selvedges…..

Otherwise this make is a simple following of the Hemlock Tee pattern instructions, plus a patch pocket! Download it for free here. For me, it’s proving to be a fantastic “base” pattern, that I can tinker with and add little details too.
I guess you could call it a pattern crush then!

DIY, how to, pashminas, refashioning, Restyles, Tutorials

DIY Pashmina Refashion – Number 2

Ok, so onto the second of my 3 pashmina refashions! This one is similar to the black one in technique; except that instead of having the selvedges running down the side seams, the whole thing is rotated 90 degrees. So the selvedges on this tunic style top, run horizontally across the neckline and hem. So the only “finishing required on this make, are hemming the sleeves and finishing the side seam allowances…

The length of this top was dictated by the width of the pashmina, selvedge to selvedge. The width was a calculation of my bust measurement + 3″ of ease + seam allowance. I divided this measurement by 2 and, with the pashmina folded in half (the folded edge is on the left of the pic and the selvedges run across the top & bottom of the pic) marked out the resulting square with chalk on my pashmina….

Cutting along the chalk lines I was left with 2 squares laying right sides together….
At this point I would urge you to learn from my mistakes and finish your side seams before beginning construction because it’s a bit of a pig to do it afterwards!

Using hole reinforcers I marked the positions of the neck and armhole openings (as per the black one)….

Construction is as follows:

1) Sew shoulder seams and press seam allowances open (no need to finish seam allowances as this part is the selvedge)
2) Sew side seams from armhole opening down to hem and press open (hopefully you’ll have already finished the seam allowances! Check out the fraying below!))
3) As you press the side seam allowances open the sleeve hems will naturally follow as they are an extension of the side seams. Press sleeve hems over all the way around and topstitch down.
4) You don’t need to finish the hem because it’s a selvedge. But you could turn it under and topstitch down for a neater finish.

Done!

DIY, how to, pashminas, refashioning, Restyles, Thrifting, Tutorials

DIY Pashmina Refashion – Number 1!

I think of the 3 pashmina refashions I posted about last week, THIS is my favourite! In a less drapey fabric, making a top that is essentially a huge square, could run the risk of swamping me and making me look huge. But because pashmina fabrics are generally so soft and drapey they fall really nicely and, unless you walk around with your arms held out to the side, you wouldn’t know it was just a simple square shape….

Essentially, I started by folding the pashmina in half, tassled ends together and folded edge at the top. (This photo is actually sideways on. So the folded edge is to your left) I’m using the full width of the pashmina to give me that really slouchy/drapey feel. So the selvedges of the pashmina will become my side seams. Because they are selvedges, I won’t need to hem the sleeves or finish the edges of the side seams. (Less work! Yay for that!) From the folded edge, I marked out the length I wanted + 3″ and cut the excess off from the tassled bottom end. (on the right in this photo). So I had basically, a rectangle of pashmina fabric, folded in half to make a square….

Ok, so now we’re looking at this the right way up. The folded edge along the top. I used an embroidery hoop centred on the folded edge, to trace my neck hole. (You could use an existing garment also, or anything round of the right size. Plate, bowl etc). The shape and size of your neck hole is basically down to personal preference and/or the size of your head! I’d suggest measuring a top you already have to get a rough idea of the dimensions….

Mark a point 1.5″ –  2″ down (depending on how much of a slope you want in your shoulder) from the folded edge on each side/selvedge. Then join each side point to the edge of the neck hole you just marked to create your shoulder lines….

Mark down from your new shoulder line, where you want your armhole opening to finish. (I used my trusty hole reinforcers to avoid marking this part with chalk). Again, measure an existing garment to get an idea of the size armhole you need. My finished armhole is about 8″. Don’t forget to take account of seam allowances. I moved this dot down another inch after this photo was taken because I forgot to add SA initially…You can always err on the side of caution and mark them quite large, then sew up the side seams a bit more if you want the openings a bit smaller after you’ve tried it on…

Cut along the shoulder and neck lines you marked. You now have 2 pattern pieces,with selvedges running down the side….

Construction is as follows:

1. Sew shoulder seams, press open, finish raw edges.
2. Finish neckline using bias tape as a facing. Good tute here or here.
3. Sew side seams from the armhole dots, down to the hem. (no need to finish any raw edges as they’re selvedges!)
4. Hem, and you’re done!

Oh, and I added a patch pocket from my Roxanne pattern just as a finishing touch….

Because of the way this particular make hangs when it’s worn, (mostly due to my “ladies”!) it naturally forms a high/low hem…..

TIP: Pashmina  fabric frays like hell. So work quickly and finish any raw edges quickly and securely. Possibly even before you begin constructing.

TIP: Check  fabric content/label.  Pashminas often contain wool/cashmere etc and may shrink in a tumble dryer. This black one did shrink a little in length after the first wash.

TIP: Use the correct needle for the weight of fabric. Pashmina fabric is suprisingly fine when laid out flat. I used a “sharps 60”

TIP: Use a walking foot. Pashmina fabric is not only surprisingly fine, it also has a relatively loose weave. The walking foot ensures the layers are pulled through at an even rate and not distorted.

So, what do you think? Are you gonna give this a try? I’d love to see them if you do! I shall certainly be on the lookout for some more pashminas to make some more of these! Soooooooo comfy….