• About
    • Contact
    • Press
    • Sponsor
  • DIY
    • Home & Garden
    • Jewellery & Accessories
    • Yarn Crafts
  • Sewing
    • patternless & self drafted
    • Refashions
    • Commercial Patterns
    • Sewing Tips
    • Overlockers
  • The Refashioners

Portia Lawrie

finished garments, hemlock tee, jersey, minerva

FO: My Hemlock Dress

09/27/13

So I had a step by step all photographed for this make. Unfortunately someone, who shall rename nameless, managed to delete all the photos from our SD card. So when I came to write up this post….erm….no photos! Aaaargh! But, I’m sure you’ll get the gist. Let me explain….

This is yet another incarnation of the fabulously versatile and free Hemlock Tee pattern. The fabric is a lovely medium weight jersey with a fine fleecy underside from Minerva Crafts. It’s from their clearance section & priced at £5.99/m. In fact they have a whole heap of jersey on clearance at the moment from as little as £1.99/m. You may have also noticed from my sidebar ads that they are one of my new sponsors….which means if you use the code PORTIA10 at checkout, you’ll get a further 10% off. So if you wanted to recreate a jersey Hemlock dress of your own….hop over there if you fancy a bargain 😉 With a free pattern and discounted fabric, what’s not to love! I would recommend medium to heavy weight jersey for this make. Perhaps even a ponte?

On the subject of how this little number was created, clearly I made a few adjustments:

  • I used the back pattern piece to cut both the front and back pieces of this dress. It makes for a higher, slash neck effect at the front.
  • I lengthened my main pattern piece by several inches.
  • I shortened the sleeve pattern piece so the sleeves are elbow length (I always pull ’em up anyway so why not!)
  • I also shaped the dress so it followed the curve of my body. Not snugly, but it made for a subtly more flattering silhouette in this dress version.

Because of the way the Hemlock Tee is constructed, it is perfect for “pinning to shape”.  The shoulder seams are sewn first. Then the sleeves are attached whilst the fabric is flat (rather than inserted into an armhole). THEN, the sleeves and side seams are sewn in one continuous line. So at THIS stage, rather than stitching as per the instructions, I pinned it to fit me the way I wanted (yes I am a contortionist at weekends) then removed the dress (yes I did stab myself with pins in the process) and used the pins as a guide to draw in my new, more shapely, side seams. Does that make sense?! You could of course pin it so it was much more body con than I have done. Jersey’s great like that!

Man I’m so bummed I don’t have the step by step photos. I was all set to show you the difference between the original seam and the new curvier one AND how I managed to draw in the new seam lines symmetrically on both sides. Also how I achieve a finish similar to an overlocker on my standard machine! But alas, there is no use crying over spilt milk! I shall just have to make another, and next time, guard the SD card with my life!!

BTW, I don’t normally wear dresses. But I can officially confirm HOW comfy this is. I can definitely see a few more of these on the horizon. Quite liberating not having to match seperates! I feel as if I’ve been missing a trick all this time….

 

Portia
Follow
Sewbox

© Copyright 2026. Portia Lawrie. All Rights Reserved. Managed by WordPress Web Dev Cornwall .