I see alot of instructions out there that state “snip notches”. My dressmaking tutor however, always drummed it into us to cut our notches outward rather than inward, and as a result this is how I have always notched my pattern pieces. For two reasons really. Firstly, an outward notch like this is a more visible guide for lining things up than little snips in fabric that can sometimes be barely visible. Secondly, as someone who invariably has to adjust my seams to fit, notching outwards means I retain all of the seam allowance to play with. Whereas if I were to make a snip into the seam allowance to the depth of that little triangle, I’m reducing the “play” I have in my seam allowances by almost half. Here’s how…
Before cutting out each pattern piece, I use another pattern piece to trace the exact mirror image of my notches to create little diamond shapes…
On double notches like this, I’ll join the tips of the two diamonds to create a tab shape. The resulting pattern piece, once cut, has a completely accurate and very visible outward notch. Which makes the pattern pieces much easier to line up when assembling the garment AND, leaves me all of my seam allowance to play with when inevitable fitting issues arise!
Cutting these notches out can require some patient scissor skills! I employ the method below, making my cuts in the numerical order shown, to keep them nice and accurate and neat…
When I first started sewing I was always in a rush to get those pattern pieces cut out and get started! Fiddly preparations like this were an annoyance! I’ve learnt to my cost though, that the quality of my finished garments starts from the moment I crack open that pattern and start cutting. And actually, now, this meticulous prep has kind of become a bit of a therapeutic, zoning out, zen kind of relaxation! You’ll note also, that hole reinforcers have become my friends when marking and reinforcing my dots on pattern pieces!
How about you? Do you notch in or out? Or do you have any genius ways of marking your pattern pieces?
Please feel free to share!
